Camera Labs

I want to dabble in trying some macro since I got a macro lens for free but besides going outside what is a good way to setup lighting without getting a marco ring flash? my concern is dealing with possible shadows from being to close to the item indoors with limited light and having to be concerned over fixing the white balance. I spoke with one gentlemen and he mentioned he had a polarized lighting setup for his marco, what defines polarized lighting? Thanks for any ideas!

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Mike "The Squirrel"
Canon 550D | Canon EF 35mm 1:2 | Canon 50 f/1.8 II | Sigma 18-125mm DC OS | Tamron SP 70-300mm Di VC USD | Canon 430EX II
Military Issued Canon 40D | Canon 55-250mm IS

Try this mate; http://www.flickr.com/groups/macroviewe ... 312315664/ It costs next to nothing & if it's good enough for Brian (LordV) it should be ok for us lesser 'togs.

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Nikon D700 & D7100 bodies + Nikkor 300mm F2.8 VR11, 1.7TC, 50mm F1.4G, 16-35mm f/4G VR, 105 F2.8 VR macro, 70-300mm lenses. A couple of filters, Giotto tripod & ballhead. Lowepro Slingshot 302 AW

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldcarlos/

GREAT! Thanks Carlos I went and read about LordV and now have to add another $1,000.00 lens to my wish list LOL That MP-E 65mm looks awesome. The Macro I'm using is not a traditional macro and I can't get as close as I'm wanting to on my subject.

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Mike "The Squirrel"
Canon 550D | Canon EF 35mm 1:2 | Canon 50 f/1.8 II | Sigma 18-125mm DC OS | Tamron SP 70-300mm Di VC USD | Canon 430EX II
Military Issued Canon 40D | Canon 55-250mm IS

Manfrotto makes a relatively inexpensive macro flash bracket, that will get your 430EX, plus another flash if desired, into a better position to light your subject. I do not have the exact SKU number, but a search of Amazon should find it quickly enough. An off-camera cord will also be needed, unless your camera's pop-up flash can activate the external flash. (I cannot recall which Canon cameras will do this.)

Really, however, I usually just use the bounce card, in the extended position, to get light onto the subject, as I shoot evidentiary close-ups at work. Only rarely do I see a need to do otherwise. I used to dream of macro ring lights, until I noticed my wife simply uses the extended bounce card of a Nikon SB-800 to photograph such fine details as fingerprints.

If feasible, white reflectors can help bounce more light onto your subject. Some folks build a box with a white interior, to surround the subject with light.

Actually, I still do dream of a true Canon macro ring flash, but the urgency is lessened.

I acquired a pristine pre-owned Nikon SB-29s ring flash, but have yet to acquire a proper macro Nikkor lens.

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Canon 7D/5D/40D/1D2N; Nikon F6, FM3A, & Coolpix A; Canon 40mm Pancake, 135L, 50L, 35L, pre-II 50mm 1.8, 100mm 2.8L Macro, 10-22mm EF-S, 28-135 EF, 400mm 5.6L; Nikkor 50mm 1.2 AI-S, 50mm 1.4G, 50mm 1.8D, 16mm 2.8D Fisheye, 180mm 2.8D, 100-300mm 5.6 AI-S; Tokina 17mm & 100mm 2.8 Macro

I've read articles/posts from quite a few Macro-shooters & it seems the majority don't use, or even tried then sold, ring flashes.
They reckon the light is a bit `flat` & the light from macro dual flashes, are difficult to diffuse and can have obvious twin reflections on some subjects.
I guess it depends what the subject is, but I wouldn't automatically presume that they are the better option, certainly at the price some of them are.

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Nikon D700 & D7100 bodies + Nikkor 300mm F2.8 VR11, 1.7TC, 50mm F1.4G, 16-35mm f/4G VR, 105 F2.8 VR macro, 70-300mm lenses. A couple of filters, Giotto tripod & ballhead. Lowepro Slingshot 302 AW

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldcarlos/

Hi Mike,

I'm relatively new to macro myself, but so far have had good success with only my 430EXII just sitting in the hot shoe diffused with some tissues held by rubber bands. I have however on a few occasions wished that I could somehow extend my flash out so it sits just over my lens, similar to the way that dude has it in the link that OldCarlos posted.

Here are a few shots that I have managed to acheive so far with my flash setup as explained above - apologies for the poor quality


fly by Chopper267, on Flickr


Spider on post by Chopper267, on Flickr


jumping spider by Chopper267, on Flickr

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Canon 5D MKIII, Canon 400D, 70-200 f2.8 L, 17-40 f4 L, 50 f1.8

If your Tamron lens is what you are meaning, as a macro lens, well, you will not really derive maximum benefit from a ring flash, anyway. Some third-party lens makers use "macro" very loosely. Your kit lens, actially, can get MUCH closer than you might think.

To be clear, I am not being negative about Tamron lenses. My wife does excellent work with a Tamron 18-200mm zoom at work, accepting its limitations, in exchange for not having to swap lenses while working outdoors. A third-party manufacturer that makes a VERY good, true macro lens is Tokina, with their 100mm 2.8 macro lens. We have one of those, for Canons, that provided me with excellent images, until I bought my Canon 100mm 2.8L, to get the weather sealing I felt necessary, as well as the internal focusing I wanted to have for shooting from within a helicopter. (The Tokina will extend while focusing, whereas the Canon 100L's has a fixed-length, with all movement occurring within the lens barrel.)

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Canon 7D/5D/40D/1D2N; Nikon F6, FM3A, & Coolpix A; Canon 40mm Pancake, 135L, 50L, 35L, pre-II 50mm 1.8, 100mm 2.8L Macro, 10-22mm EF-S, 28-135 EF, 400mm 5.6L; Nikkor 50mm 1.2 AI-S, 50mm 1.4G, 50mm 1.8D, 16mm 2.8D Fisheye, 180mm 2.8D, 100-300mm 5.6 AI-S; Tokina 17mm & 100mm 2.8 Macro

Excellent macro shots Chopper, especially the compound eyes in #1 (do you `focus-stack` at all?)

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Nikon D700 & D7100 bodies + Nikkor 300mm F2.8 VR11, 1.7TC, 50mm F1.4G, 16-35mm f/4G VR, 105 F2.8 VR macro, 70-300mm lenses. A couple of filters, Giotto tripod & ballhead. Lowepro Slingshot 302 AW

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldcarlos/

Actually what I'm using is a Canon FD 35-100 f/3.5 Macro. Although it says macro, it is not a traditional macro like what we are used to. You have to put it into macro mode by turning the zoom ring to 35mm then flipping a switch which takes it below 35mm. It just doesn't seem to let me get as close as I think a real macro does. I actually think I can get closer with my 35mm f/2. I'm going to give it a shot next.

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Mike "The Squirrel"
Canon 550D | Canon EF 35mm 1:2 | Canon 50 f/1.8 II | Sigma 18-125mm DC OS | Tamron SP 70-300mm Di VC USD | Canon 430EX II
Military Issued Canon 40D | Canon 55-250mm IS

Thanks.

No focus stacking. I use Kenko extension tubes and a reversed 50mm 1.8 to take these shots. It does not leave much room for error as DOF is razor thin and alot of shots miss the mark by millimetres, but the more I practise the better I get.

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Canon 5D MKIII, Canon 400D, 70-200 f2.8 L, 17-40 f4 L, 50 f1.8