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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 4:09 pm 
Some climbing shots from the weekend

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Model Canon EOS 550D
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Model Canon EOS 550D
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Exposure 1/125 sec
Aperture 5.0
Focal Length 50mm


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Model Canon EOS 550D
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:16 pm 
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Just wondering: is that speed climbing or just regular free climbing? Pretty intense expressions on his face.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:36 pm 
Speed climbing is just something made up for the telly.

The correct terminology for this would be:

Gordon is rock climbing, he is leading a bolted route.

The "leading' refers to the way he is trailing a rope behind him and clipping into the fixed (bolted) protection as he goes. This differs from some one having already been to the top of the route and the rope already being in place above him. If he falls he can go quite a way

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The term 'free climbing' come from a time when climbers used aid a lot. Aiding a route is about placing gear into the rock and using it (pulling on or stepping on it) to "aid" upwards progress. As climbers and climbing techniques improved climbers started to go back to these routes and climb then 'free' from aid, they freed them, hence free climbing.

The route Gordon is working on here is harder than anything he has done before at right at the limits of his physical ability. He can do all of the individual moves but cant do them all in sequence without a fall just yet. He's not far off though, there is a good chance it will go this weekend coming.

Because no one else has climbed this route before Gordon will earn the right to name it.

Sorry for the long answer :oops: hope it makes sense


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:33 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2009 9:56 am
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its a bolted route right? so i assume someone has done it before to set the staples in, or am i wrong??
the rock looks awesome by the way!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:25 am 
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Typical bolting (not stapling) is done on rappel. The reasons is simply practically. It would be hard to carry the drill while climbing. Weather or not the climb has been done before, that's up for grabs. In this particular case, ianganderton said that the first ascent is still up for grabs.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:37 am 
There are a few routes around that are bolted on lead but they tend to be pretty easy. Also bolting on lead can often mean routes arent actually very well bolted because the drill only comes out when the climber is in a comfortable position.

Routes are only bolted where natural (non permanent) cant be used or the climbers have no ethics :P (there is a base philosophy in the outdoors that you should leave the worlds natural places in the same state you found them. Bolting does break this philosophy and its an argument that climbers have been having for decades and will continue to for many many more)


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