Camera Labs

Ah, you're getting the hang of it, Ziggy!
As to the EXIF-Info I simply right-click on the image and see all the info that is there - but that is just a function of the Opera-browser that I normally use - IE 8 doesn't show it.
As to the quality: ianganderton is right that some images should be deleted asap. But I'd only count #5 in this category: Nothing can be learnt from that apart that you need to get better focus and/or less shake - oh and try to shoot more interesting subjects
But the other 4 images show interesting subjects and are well enough taken to keep them for learning. #2 could be pretty good if either the background would be more sharp or less in focus. As it is I get a headache trying to figure out whether the bg is sharp (enough)...

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Thomas (beware: Nikon-fanboy and moderator!) My Lens Reviews, My Pictures, My Photography Blog
D800+assorted lenses

Hi Ziggy, maybe check out some of the tips from this website. Gordon has some videos that really helped me when I started out.

http://www.cameralabs.com/features/Late ... hops.shtml

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Rebel T2I, Tamron 17-50 2.8, EF 70-300 f4-5.6, 50mm f 1.8

flickr

Welcome to the forum Ziggywigs, The falls set looks like a great place to shoot, for me there is not one point in the shots that is in focus which suggests camera shake.

Practice the same shot on anything and increase the ISO in stages and see the results. Increasing the ISO will also increase the speed of the shot which will help with camera shake.

When I first started shooting I was to enthusiastic and forgot about keeping the camera steady on occasions.

@Ian, I found this link useful on compositions. http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm

Cheers

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Nikon D7000, D40X, Nikkor 18- 200 VR II, f3.5-5.6, 70-300 AF non VR, Kit Lenses.

Welcome to the forum, Ziggywigs - it looks as if you're getting off to a good start and overcoming the initial hurdle of posting on a forum is a good one to clear!

First up, I'd say don't be phased by poor weather. I wouldn't suggest shooting in torrential rain or anything like that! However anything with interest in the skies, mist or fog can really add to an image. If you draw the curtains in the morning and see gloomy weather, don't be put off!

Secondly, I'd gather as much information as possible on exposure. Understanding Exposure is a great book and learning tool, and will be invaluable.

Thirdly, I'd say (as previously mentioned) to watch your shutter speeds. To get an acceptably sharp image you'll be needing a shutter speed of the reciprocal of around 1.5 x your focal length. i.e. if you're shooting with a lens at 40mm, then shooting at 1/60th second, if you're shooting at 120mm then 1/200th second. Obviously this is only required when hand holding the camera. If you have a lens with IS, then you can go slower but this is a good practice to start off with. If you have a lens with IS and you're on a tripod, then switch IS off as this can introduce blur (goes against all thinking, I know, but it's true!)

And fourthly, just go out, practise and enjoy, post on here and do as much research and youtube-ing as you can

Thanks guys that's really helpful feedback.

From the comments I think shutter speeds may be an issue as I used a tripod for the fall shots so wonder given the comments about IS if by not switching this off has actually introduced camera shake? Will try this in future with it on and off to see what difference it makes. I used the timer as I couldn't get my (new) remote to work (think dud battery).

Can't wait to get out and try out all the tips you guys have given me! I will definitely check out the links.

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Ziggy

Hmmm just discovered a wee problem with my Manfrotto 7322YB stand... it doesn't seem to support my camera with a lense adequately it seems to very slowly sink when left...this is particularly noticeable when I rotate the camera as it slips down faster which was what had drawn my attention to it, as it's not so noticeable when sitting straight but it does do it extremely slowly. I did a bit of googling and it would seem that I am not the only with a 400D who has had this problem with this particular stand.

I am assuming that different stands support different weights so I am going to toddle back to the shop where I bought the camera and stand from to see what they recommend as a stable stand is essential otherwise what is the point of using one.

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Ziggy

Manfrotto 055ProB with Manfrotto 808RC4 head
->my choice

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Thomas (beware: Nikon-fanboy and moderator!) My Lens Reviews, My Pictures, My Photography Blog
D800+assorted lenses

I managed to change my tripod for something which holds the camera and I think there's an improvement....



Exposure 1/125
Aperture: f/4.5
ISO Equiv.: 200



Exposure Time: 1/125
Aperture: f/4.0
ISO Equiv.: 200



Exposure Time: 1/160
Aperture: f/8.0
ISO Equiv.: 400



Exposure Time: 1/8
Aperture: f/20.0
ISO Equiv.: 100

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Ziggy

Looks like a great place for shooting landscapes, although you have lost the camera shake, to me there is no point that is sharp and grabs my attention, perhaps that is your intention.

Would suggest having a look at the tutorials on the forum, How to get more in focus and How to make shots look darker/lighter with EV.

Cheers

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Nikon D7000, D40X, Nikkor 18- 200 VR II, f3.5-5.6, 70-300 AF non VR, Kit Lenses.

Looking at the last but one image with exposure time 1/8 sec and aperture: f/20.0: Was this intentional?
If you wanted the runner on the beach to be blurred and the waves slightly non-sharp it is OK to stop the lens down to f/20 to achieve the relatively long exposure of 1/8 sec.
If you wanted the sharpest setup for that image f/5.6 and 1/30 sec would have been more appropriate. Because even on a tripod you can only avoid shake, it does nothing against motion blur...

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Thomas (beware: Nikon-fanboy and moderator!) My Lens Reviews, My Pictures, My Photography Blog
D800+assorted lenses

the only thing that i would add to the obove comments is you are out there to make a picture not to take one and the longer you practice the better you will get always scan the fram for anything that distraces from the images it is a hard prosses to learn but you will learn it ( keep up the practice and don't get discuraged)

Welcome to the pain that is photography. You need to set out in your head what you want to achieve with your images. Are you looking to document a landscape? By this I mean is it your intention to portray everything as is, warts 'n' all? Or are you imagining when you take the shot something which is not actually in front of you? The weather in Scotland is predominanytly miserable. I take this for granted now and so when I'm out shooting I'm thinking of what I'd like to see rather than the grey, damp reality. Of course grey and damp can be beautiful but I feel it needs a better camera and more importantly lenses, to achieve this.

What pp do you perform on your shots? This can make a helluva difference. It won't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear but all the same. If you're aware that pp is an integral part of taking and displaying a photograph you tend to think with this in mind as you shoot. You'd be amazed where that kind of thinking can take you I'm aware there are purists out there who actually believe that creative pp actually invalidates a photograph. These people are incorrect.

Keep at it mate, you have the very best subject on your doorstep.

P.S. Well done for knowing how to post a pic up here. I can never sus it out.

P.P.S. My surname is the most common to be found in Contin Kirk graveyard. Go figure.

zorro

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http://zorrofox4.deviantart.com/



Various lenses, SB800 & Manfrotto 190 with 460MG head