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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:23 am 
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Hi everyone, just a quick note to let you know our latest video workshop is ready! See here:

DSLR Tips: How to take photos at night.

If you have any questions about this workshop, fire away!

Likewise, if you have any night photos taken using this technique, please share them here!

Gordon


Last edited by Gordon Laing on Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:28 am 
Thanks Gordon.

Helps loads!!!!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:09 am 
great Vid but I don't like the blue theme for DSLR tips.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:58 pm 
blue is ok, but since camera labs is white and red i would have liked 2 see it in red and black ;)

Great workshop btw.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:01 pm 
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Location: Sydney Australia
Red huh? We all secret Communists here? hehehe Kidding...

Thanks Gordon for creating a very nice workshop... I tried it out and it works great... I tried looking for help on how to shoot good night time shots, but unfortunately no one gave a step by step like this workshop. Good stuff

Leo

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4) Leica M [50mm Summicron Pre-aspherical - Silver]

http://www.poetproductions.net


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:15 pm 
Leo wrote:
Red huh? We all secret Communists here? hehehe Kidding...


nope... but we like blood, the darkness and death metal... well, i do atleast :)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:53 pm 
Great workshop Gordon, really liked it.
I have had longer shutterspeed very clear to me, but that i have to set the aperture to max (low number) was new to me.

And i have a question to that. Doesnt bigger aperture mean that i have a shorter DOF?

What will the result be if i choose a smaller aperture doing nightshots?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:55 pm 
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Yes, a smaller aperture will mean a smaller DOF, but since most city skylines are distant, this won't be an issue.

But if you need a bigger DOF, then by all means, close the aperture down to a bigger f-number and increase the exposure until you get the result you want.

If you close down a lot though, you may need more than 30 seconds, which would necessitate a cable release as most DSLRs only offer programmable shutters up to 30 secs.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:21 am 
Gordon,

It's a fair workshop, but there's no mention of mirror-lock up...

Keep up the good work.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:39 am 
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True, but not all DSLRs have MLU, and I've never personally needed it on any of those kind of shots before. But I will mention it in a more advanced workshop in the future - I'm trying to keep these first ones as simple as possible.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:49 am 
Gordon, if you have the "Bulb" setting, that would allow you to shoot longer then 30 sec, right?

Have you every used this setting? and/or what would you use this setting for??

Nick


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:56 am 
he mentioned that above. most DSLRs are programmed to a 30sec shutter, but to get a longer 1 you would need a remote and the camera set to bulb.
And i know it is used for astronomic photography, and i guess it can be used to create different effects. Don't use it so i don't really know.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:05 am 
I can imagine that you'd use bulb +30 sec if it is really dark outside and you want to catch a thunder lightning or something else that happens "with a flash"


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:04 am 
I reserve bulb for when I take fireworks. I hit the cable release when the rocket is released, and then release the shutter once it's exploded to record the entire trail.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:42 pm 
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Thanks for the workshop Gordon. I really like that image of Tokyo at 5m40s into the video. What hotel were you shooting from?

-steve

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