Don - On Auto the HS10 is controlling the ISO - so t least go to Program. Press the ISO button - back top left of the 5 - and get ISO off the "variable ranges" - manually select 100-200, so on. It's working that 1/2.3" BSI-CMOS sensor at just 10Mpix - so the difference in noise at ISO 100 and 200 is very little - 400 not much more - and still fairly low at 800. At 800 - if you don't crop, or very little - and show the image below 1600 x 1200 - noise is minimal.
Or you can change the JPEGs to PSD, TIFF, or another lossless format - and de-noise gently. Several very small applications with de-noise is better than one large one - if you don't want to use RAW - which at ISO 800 and 1600 handles the noise better.
If you're using a Multi-Card Reader - its SD function might be just that - SD only - that is, 2GB and under. 4GB and up needs an SDHC capable Reader.
The HS10 does have Fuji's pretty good colour in images. But - using Auto and letting the camera "decide for itself" - gets lousy results, sadly. In Auto other than very bright light - it bumps the ISO up-and-up - result, grainy-noisy and "drab-colour" images.
Get into the Menus - Shooting Menu Page 2 - and adjust Colour to Mid or High, then Tone to Hard, and Sharpness to Mid or Hard. Do some sample shots - then you'll see how "toggling" those 3 adjustments against each other can change the colour results a lot.
Just above those 3 - is White Balance Fine-Tune - where you can "bias" image colours on the Red-Cyan and Blue-Yellow levels.
One more up in that Menu - is FinePix Colour - and offers Standard, Chrome, B&W and Sepia. As with any camera - you can do better Sepia and B&W in Photoshop or Gimp, etc. In Photy - use the Channels dialog - click the "Mono" box at the bottom - and then you still have the RGB Channels to adjust for better depth, shadow, etc, in your B&W conversion.
That "Chrome" setting is meant to mimic Fuji's Fulvia film... If you like very "bright" colours it might suit - but I find it "too-much" garish.
You can also use Enhanced Dynamic Range - just above FinePix Colour in that Menu - you can have 200% or 400%. However - the camera must be set at ISO 200 for 200% to be settable - and at 400 for 400%. I find the 200% very usable - the 400% a "bit much".
What you "can" do - is enable the 200% DR. Then when shooting - as there's almost no noise difference betweem ISO 100 and 200 - you can rapidly click-between - no DR in ISO 100 - and 200% in ISO 200 - to get a shot or more in both. The DR% is shown in a yellow box on EVF/LCD. In that setting just mentioned - when at ISO 100 with DR Off - the box shows with an arrow that going to ISO 200 will get DR200%.
As noted - I use Shutter Priority as Camera-Off and carry mode. I use ISO 200 in Camera-Off. So when turned-on - I have Shutter and ISO 200 - and that allows keeping the shutter-speed up for moving targets. Getting to ISO 100 is just a press of the ISO button - and one press on the Left-Arrow on the 4-way pad. When working with those 5 buttons on the left - using the Left-Right on the pad to adjust, is faster-easier than using the Command-Dial.
Amongst the HS10's Fuji-isms is the badly "hunting" AF - particularly past half-zoom on other than very bright days. Fortunately - the MF is very good for a P&S. (As the "Manual" doesn't say how it works - many users think it doesn't work at all!)
MF works in all Modes, including Auto and Program. But hand-held in any of the other 3 Modes - get used to it, and it's very good. Not as good as a real FSLR / DSLR lens - but best I've used on P&S.
To use MF easily - zoom to framing you want. Then press the AE/AF-Lock button - below the Red Video button. The camera uses the AF-function to get an "approximate" focus. You can then see to compose your image accurately. Then, "rock" the focus-ring on the barrel back-forward. That ring is very close to the camera body.
So hold the camera like a DSLR - left hand under the body. Then your index finger is neatly in position to "rock" the ring - you don't "rotate" it. You go "past" exact focus - and "come-back" to it - as you rock... After a few goes at that - the movement and "centring" the focus is fast and feels natural. If you've used MF lenses on a Film SLR - it's very similar.
You can turn the "magnifying" centre rectangle On-Off in the Menu. I usually have it Off for handheld shooting, other than low-light. And On, for Tripod use when using the LCD. For EVF - make sure you have the diopter setting (little dial on left of the EVF) - adjusted exactly to your vision. Even one click "off" makes quite a difference.
As you'll know by now - Fuji's HS10 "Manual" isn't very helpful on many things HS10... That MF usage is only one of them....