Camera Labs

Hi? everyone!! I have one quetion))
How I can capture photo like this one?

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Canon 7D + 15-85 EF-S

Hi max.maslyuk,

May I wish you a warm welcome to the CameraLabs forum.

Fun shot - you must be a François Duval fan! If I was trying to reproduce the shot I'd take a burst of shots with the camera fitted to a tripod. Adding the four ghosts to the final image in the sequence would then be a matter of selecting the car in the four earlier images (a lasso tool in PhotoShop would be one way), copying and pasting to new layers with the desired transparency. Special treatment would be needed for the ghost which has the videographer in front of it but that should be straightforward to do. I'm not sure why there's a vertical processing artefact running through the left chevron, though, unless the "selection" step was done rather sloppily.

I'm pretty sure some such technique was used because the videographer was probably tracking the car so, even if everyone else was as still as a statue, one would expect the video camera to be "blurred" if the selection step I've described hadn't occurred.

Update: I've now found the original image which doesn't show that "vertical processing artefact" so it looks like the only sloppiness was caused by person or persons or computer programs unknown.

Bob.

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OM-D E-M5 + ED 12-50mm, H-PS14042E, H-F007014E, L-RS014150E, M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 45mm 1:1.8.
Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.

Hi, Bob!! Thank you for your answer. hmm.. I'm rally fan I found this shot by chance. And I became interested to taking photos like that. I've read there are several cameras with this function. May be you know something about them?
P.S. I apologize for my bad English

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Canon 7D + 15-85 EF-S

Hi folks,

i'm the author of this image and found this post in my flickr referer logs. The image above has been the first version. Someone asked me for a large version and that motivated me to do it right. That's why the currenct version looks better than the one you found (probably on wikipedia).

The images have been taken handheld with a Nikon D300 and stiched with a panorama program called PT GUI, which is the best out there in my opinion. That program can generate layered Photoshop files. Each frame is automatically perspective and colour corrected by PT GUI and stacked above the final panorama which is the background layer.
I have masked the car in each layer and included some of the tire smoke and road as needed to the individual masks to show more drifting action (which is not in the base panorama background).

But i'm afraid no camera feature will help you getting such a shot straight out of the camera. There's always manual processing needed. The good news is that probably any DSLR will be good enough to produce the images needed to do something like this.

More examples - click on the images to get to flickr:

Hi realname,

May I wish you a very warm welcome to the CameraLabs community.

And thanks for taking the time to give us the low-down - stunningly good work. I hope you won't be a stranger to us in the future.

Bob.

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OM-D E-M5 + ED 12-50mm, H-PS14042E, H-F007014E, L-RS014150E, M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 45mm 1:1.8.
Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.

To reduce the need for colour correction in post production, I'd consider shooting in manual to ensure identical exposure on all shots.

On film SLRs there's a switch to temporarily disable the film advance and take multiple shots on the same frame on the roll.

I've done similar shots on a film camera, but have yet to find an equivalent on any of the DSLRs I've had a chance to use.

I've also used this technique - I have generally hand-blended multiple exposures in Photoshop, using simple layers and eraser-brushing away the area of the car in each previous frame while stacking - it's relatively easy, just a wee bit time consuming - but can be fun to use for sports, motorsports, and other fun uses. A tripod isn't necessary, but can be helpful if you're not real steady, as you don't want to misalign the frames too much or the backgrounds will be hard to match when blending the subjects - they are ghosted, and it will still show some of the background when you have areas like tire smoke and such...so frames where the background is identical will make things easier. Here's a fun one I did at a stunt show:


You also don't have to 'ghost' the subject if you don't want to - when blending the frames, you can actually bring the subject through as a full exposure, stacking only the areas around the subject...like this 3-shot of a jumping motorcycle that comes off looking like 3 bikes jumping:


To the photographer who took those photos - nice work - it's a neat effect and works well for that subject of rally, as you get to see the maneuvering of the vehicles and control of those drivers.

By the way, there actually ARE some DSLRs that can perform an effect like this straight from the camera, though it wasn't the intention of the mode. Some Sony and Pentax DSLRs have an HDR mode, or a multiframe ISO mode, designed to stack frames in camera for dynamic range, or stack frames in camera for noise reduction. Those modes are typically used with stationary subjects, but if used with a moving subject, it will capture the ghost of the moving subject in the previous frames. Sony and Pentax both have a 3-frame capture for HDR, and Sony has a 6-frame capture for noise reduction - so you could have as many as 6 stacked frames with ghost trail captured, during the short 1 second burst.

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Justin Miller
Sony DSLR-A580 / Sony 18-250mm / Minolta 50mm F1.7 / Sigma 30mm F1.4 / Tamron 10-24mm / Tamron 200-500mm / Tamron 90mm F2.8 macro / Minolta 300mm F4 APO
Sony NEX5N / 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 / 55-210mm F4-6.3 / Pentax K adapter / Konica K/AR adapter / bunches o' Konica & Pentax lenses!

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