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 Post subject: Night Shot
PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 58
Hi, there is one of my night shots try, can some one tell what can i do to don't have flares and my moon being a big light ball?

I used: 18-55mm lens, 20secs SP, f3.5

Image

Thanks C&C


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:27 am 
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Posts: 1815
Why is the moon blurred - that is because the moon is very bright and needs a fast shutter speed to capture the detail correctly. Try spot metering on the moon and see how your meter evaluates the shutter speed you'll need. Also, the moon is moving relatively quickly across the sky, so any shutter speed that is slow will show this movement, adding to the blur. If you're starting off shooting the moon with matrix metering your camera will over expose as there is a lot of dark sky around a very bright moon.

You seem to be shooting the scene at the widest aperture that your 18-55 will allow. That will not help your flaring or general image quality. Also, with a near full moon at F3.5, I don't think you should need a shutter speed of 20 seconds for that scene. I would imagine at F8-F11 you'd need a shutter speed of 10-15 seconds maximum there.

For shooting at night try setting the camera up in full manual mode, and then checking your histogram on your LCD after each shot, adjusting the exposure accordingly to avoid highlights. You might not get rid of all highlights with very bright street lights, but minimising will help a lot. Also, try setting your lens to F8 - F11 as this will give you starburst effects from point sources of light.

To start, try avoiding the moon in your shot and just practise exposing the shot correctly using Manual mode and checking your histogram. You may well find that the best shot of your scene is an underexposure of 1-2 stops over what your camera's meter will have you believe.

For best sharpness, try using a remote shutter release or at least the remote timer on the camera itself to avoid camera shake. And if your lens has image stabilisation and you're on a tripod then switch it off as the lack of movement confuses the image stabilisation.

You have just discovered how much of a 'cheat' those shots of a big full moon setting over a well exposed night scene are! Two seperate exposures are required (unless you're using a Nikon D3S and fast lens at ISO100000+ !!!)


Last edited by dubaiphil on Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:24 am 
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I forgot to mention one other thing - White Balance.

You might like to try switching your camera from auto White Balance to one of the presets to avoid the fellow tint that you will get from street lighting. Either that or switch to manual White Balance and try between the 2600-3000 range. If you're shooting in RAW then you can change this when opening up the file on your computer, but if you're shooting in JPEG you'll need to experiment and try to get it right in camera


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:49 am 
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Another thing. Did the lens have a protective UV filter on it? If it had try taking it off. You might suffer from reflections between the lens' front element and the inner surface of the filter.

You could also try a HDR.

Ben
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 9:43 am 
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Location: Bilbao
@dubaiphil: 2600-3000 range is for tungsten-lamps. Fluorescents are closer to daylight color temperature (I think 3800-4000), but the real problem with fluorescents is that some of them (sodium vapor lamps to be exact) have this putrid yellow-greenish color that can't be solved by moving the color temperature slider alone, you have to set your white balance to fluorescent so that the camera can compensate the green

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 10:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 58
Thanks everyone for the help.
I tried with Autobalance on and off, with Autobalance on the color was more natural (less greenish, as you will see in this photo below), in relation to the UV filter, yes i had it on but when i saw the flares i taked it off to see the difference, all the photos had been shoted at M mode.

This one was RAW.

20secs
F5.6
ISO 200
31mm
WB: Auto


Image

PS: in 1st photo i edit the sky in PS to remove flares, because n1 was like this one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 11:11 am 
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@Timmy - my only experience is from street lighting in Dubai, which may not be sodium vapour, so I aim for the 2600-3000 mark for a more natural look.

If it's the colour cast from the street lights that are causing a problem, then maybe removing the colour cast with the eyedropper in PS or PSE will help.

Nice fireworks and Guggenheim shots on your Flickr, by the way.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 11:13 am 
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When using my Sigma 10-20mm at night with bright point light sources I get flaring as well, but with the Nikon 24-70 or Carl Zeiss 35mm this is eradicated. Nano coating/T coating on higher spec lenses will help...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:23 am
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Thanks,

I will try a diferente shots today.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:47 pm
Posts: 180
Location: Bilbao
Well, we have all kinds of fluorescent street lights here in bilbao, so anytime I try to take an urban landscape pic at night I either get a green picture or a red one :(.

Worst case I've had was in february trying to do a pano of the city at 9 am. The street lights were still on, and people was already working, so I had 3 totally different sources of light: Daylight, tungsten and the office's sodium vapor lamps. Plus, I was shooting handheld at ISO 1000 because it was still pretty dark. Needless to say the image was a complete mess, windows were putrid green, street lamps were orange and the whole image had a blue tint. Oh and a lot of noise. Man...I was a complete noob XD


Edit* I was browsing my folder to see how it would have been with the correct white balance and it turns out i shot the pictures in jpg...FAIL xDD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:18 pm 
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Bilbao - definitely on my 'to do' list, staying at the Hotel Marqués de Riscal - awesome architecture, and the wine ain't bad either!

Anyway, I'm really going off thread!

Frielspak - be sure to just practise practise practise, and post post post! It may be compression on your posted pictures but beware of your focussing as well - it may be worth focussing in Live View by zooming in. Upping the aperture to F8-F11 will help with DoF though...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:23 am
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i will do it today again :P let's see.

My camera (D3000) dont have liveview (i don't like it) and i was focusing manualy, i will improve it :P

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:59 pm
Posts: 729
Location: Canada
Friesspak good luck for the next night shots... Phil has given the best pointers
remember disable the steady shot, and use a remote or the self timer.
looking forward to see the next post. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 58
I used Tripod and Self-timer of 10 secs :shock: hehe

I will post it soon, now i am going to check train hour to take a shot at it moving ^^


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