Camera Labs

1.Raw picture taking on DSLR, converted to JPEG throught the help of softwares.


2.JPEG picture taken by a DSLR


Does 1 and 2 have a difference?...

Yes, because you get to choose lots more settings in the RAW converter software, than you get in the camera.

RAW is a dream-come-true! I used to shoot in Jpeg, then switched to RAW+Jpeg and now I shoot RAW only. Don't ever want to shoot in Jpeg anymore. You do need proper software to work with it though...

- Bjorn -

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Street and documentary photographer | Google+ | Twitter | Blog | Tumblr

Leica M9-P (my article on Camera Labs) | Leica D-Lux 5 | 50mm Summilux

RAW does mean allot more work, so if you're planning on taking 100+ pictures of something, RAW is going to make you process all of the pictures before you can use them.

With more options, comes more patience... (or something like that)

Something to consider when shooting RAW.

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dersuawesome.com
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Canon EOS 7D | Canon EOS 500D | Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 | Sigma 50mm f/1.4 | Canon 20-35mm f/2.8 L | Canon 28-70 f/2.8 L USM | Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS USM |2x Lumopro LP160 | Metz 48 AF-1

That's true indeed. I spent more time processing photos I shot for an assignment a while back than actually taking the photos...

Still, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, for me anyway. One thing to watch out for though, is the mentality of "Ah, never mind, I'll fix that later". I've found myself to not worry too much about spot-on exposure and color, and while RAW allows for a lot of corrections to be done in PP, it can make you somewhat lazy.

- Bjorn -

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Street and documentary photographer | Google+ | Twitter | Blog | Tumblr

Leica M9-P (my article on Camera Labs) | Leica D-Lux 5 | 50mm Summilux

What I have read in a comment made by a pro in a photography magazine is that if you choose the highest quality and your exposure is good, a JPEG will suit nearly every purpose. For processing RAW will take more time but it does is said to include +/- 1 stop more headroom in the highlights...

What bothers me on RAW is the huge filesize. My little A350 doesn't like those huge filesizes, especially not when shot in burst mode...hopefully the A7XX will have those RAW's for breakfast in the future !

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Sony α77V/VG-C77AM/α350/18-70/70-400 G SSM/NEX-5/18-55 OSS/Lowepro Pro Trekker 600 AW/CompuTrekker AW/Nova 140 AW/Street & Field gear/Toploader Pro 75 AW. And a huge wishlist...

My photos on Flickr...

Hi All,

With all the recent talk about this subject, I decided to use my PSE which I’ve had for 6 months to find out for myself. As a test, I shot a jpeg fine and one raw using a 2 rung step ladder as a tripod, VR was turned off and each shot had a 2 second timer.
The shots Taken:

Flower was taken in Jpeg Fine, Flower was taken in Raw and converted to Jpeg with no processing and the other shot was taken in Raw with auto processing in PSE.

The colours of the Jpeg where the most natural for my eyes and I could look at the flower in question to compare. Folks get their eyesight tested but how many have them tested for colour blindness no matter how slight any colour blindness may be.

My thinking is, if severe processing is not performed, then Raw is a waste of time for me, although I can see many benefits for PP.

Cheers

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Nikon D7000, D40X, Nikkor 18- 200 VR II, f3.5-5.6, 70-300 AF non VR, Kit Lenses.

Hi Bjorn,
You mentioned that we need proper software to convert jpeg to raw. Which software do you prefer, or use? Is the software provided with the camera by reputed brands like Panasonic, Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Sony or Pentax usually sufficient or something else is needed? If you want to convert raw to jpeg without editing, is batch processing possible? Can effects like white balance and exposure compensation be done satisfactorily in post processing?
Thanks,
Jinay.

Jinay, you have questions there that I also wanted to ask =p

I went to a friends house and played around with Canon's software and I saw something like "Batch Process" so I guess that's an yes. But as for other brands you mestioned, I'm not quite too sure.

Hi folks,

I've moved this thread over to Imaging and Video Editing Software: you might find some answers to the questions raised in other threads in this section.

There's a case to make that the camera manufacturer's own RAW converter is a good place to start as they know a great deal about the characteristics of their sensors and, in Canon's case at least, also provide built in correction profiles for their lenses. But arguably the heavyweights, such as Adobe, provide more functionality in addition to the basic task of converting the RAW data. For myself, and speaking strictly as a "happy snapper", I prefer to let Canon's own DPP software do the RAW conversion and lens corrections if needed. I can then use DPP's "batch processing" to send the keepers over to Adobe Bridge as (lossless) 16 bit TIFF files from where I can invoke Adobe Camera Raw to do the bulk of my post-processing, finishing off as needed by finally transferring the images across to PhotoShop.

Bob.

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OM-D E-M5 + ED 12-50mm, H-PS14042E, H-F007014E, L-RS014150E, M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 45mm 1:1.8.
Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.

With raw you can cook the picture as much as you like.

Hi Bob, out of curiosity, are you sending the RAW processing settings and then opening raw files under ACR or are you opening tiff files under ACR? That'd be interesting to hear if Canon allows you to save out changes to RAW files, I guess in a sidecar readable by ACR?

Some of my latest edits I totally redid in ACR after I saw how much noise was popping up even in 16 bit tiffs after performing tone curve adjustments.



This is a crop from a nikon D40 13.5x19 inch image, that would print at 240 PPI.

That's because ACR performs noise reduction. You can easily perform noise reduction on the 16 bit TIFF too.

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PhilipGoh.com

Hi pgtips,

It is not the same effect, I've tried it. ACR produces a superior output compared to a two-step process.

Hi capital,

DPP exports TIFFs and then calls Adobe Bridge with a pointer to the correct folder. Those TIFFs, from my 5D2, are HUGE so I have to remember to delete them once the images have been saved as PSD files in PhotoShop. Not a particular problem as, even if I forget, the next time I start Bridge I'll soon see if those old TIFFs are still around.

Bob.

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OM-D E-M5 + ED 12-50mm, H-PS14042E, H-F007014E, L-RS014150E, M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 45mm 1:1.8.
Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.