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 Post subject: A Frosty Morning
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 3:12 pm 
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Hi folks,

Now that winter has finally arrived here in the Cotswolds, at least in the form of frosty mornings, I decided to shake the dust off my 40D and try my luck. The following image was captured with an EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens at 28mm and f/9 with ISO 100 and 1/160th of a second exposure. The rays from the Sun were a welcome artefact from the lens/sensor, not a result of using a special filter.
    Image
    The image is "clickable" if you want to view it at full size (3.8MB).

    Processing
The RAW file was opened using Canon's DPP in order to apply its "Peripheral Illumination" correction and the image was then exported as a 16 bit TIFF file and opened in Photoshop CS2. An overall light sharpening (Smart Sharpen) was applied and then I used Photoshop's Shadow/Highlight tool to provide a very light boost to enhance the shadow detail. I "magic lassoed" the grass in the fields and Smart Sharpen was applied again, this time a bit more aggressively, as I wanted to try and regain some of the sparkle of the heavy frost so evident to the naked eye but so difficult to capture with a camera. I then inverted the selection and applied a very light boost in colour saturation. Finally I cropped a few pixels off the bottom of the frame.

For comparison, here is the original unprocessed but resized JPEG (I shoot in RAW + Large Fine). The 40D was in P mode with Landscape style and one extra notch of in-camera sharpening over the shipping default.
    Image
Any comments are welcome. Have I over-processed or is there more I could do to improve the photo?

Bob.

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Olympus OM-D E-M1 + M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8, Lumix 7-14mm f/4, Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH, M.Zuiko Digital 45mm 1:1.8, M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm 1:1.8.
Leica D Vario-Elmar 14mm-150mm f/3.5 - f/5.6 ASPH.
OM-D E-M5, H-PS14042E, Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 5:51 pm 
Hi,
I like this shot a lot and the post-processing is just right in my opinion.
The sharpened grass and the slight color boost looks amazing. 10/10 ! :)
Thanks for submitting it, it's very inspiring.
-Andy-


Last edited by Andy on Sun Dec 16, 2007 7:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 5:59 pm 
Excellent shot Bob!!! Great explanation too. Just shows how useful post-processing can be.

Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 6:15 pm 
Wow Bob, that's really nice. When I first say the finished image I thought... mmm, maybe I need a 40D. Even full size, there's very little noise or color fringe. I was even more impressed to see what you started with -- your pp is the kind of image I like, and not a bit over processed. The accent you brought to the sun looks natural and highlights the entire shot. Bringing the highlights out of the shadows finishes it off perfectly. oooh I'm going to have get better at this pp stuff... :lol: :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:35 pm 
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Hi Bob, that's a really nice shot, and very good use of PP. You can tell there's sharpening applied, but it's still quite discreet - then when you see the original, you think, WOW, you've done a really good job - subtle but very effective.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:54 pm 
Hi Bob!
PS work looks just fine. Can U post version from DPP (750x500 resize)? Just put in faithful style, +2 saturation (110 on RGB), +1 contrast, +6 sharpness (250 sharpness on RGB) and lens corrections.

Cheers!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:00 pm 
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Drazen Gal wrote:
Can U post version from DPP (750x500 resize)? Just put in faithful style, +2 saturation (110 on RGB), +1 contrast, +6 sharpness (250 sharpness on RGB) and lens corrections.

Here you are:
    Image
Nice "recipe" and thanks for sharing. After close examination of the processed RAW file at 100%, particularly the leafless trees, I think DPP is doing a better job of sharpening the RAW file than Photoshop CS2 did with the exported 16 bit TIFF file (I'm too mean to splash the cash for a CS3 upgrade just to get a RAW converter for the 40D). So with this image I think I would have done better to apply the initial sharpening and lens corrections in DPP, export to Photoshop, and then continue from the point where I used "Photoshop's Shadow/Highlight tool" in my original processing. I think I would only need the tiniest bit of additional sharpening in the grass areas after the DPP treatment and then, as before, I would invert the selection to apply that selective boost in saturation as I don't want to introduce any extra colour into those frosty fields. 8)

Are these settings your normal default or do you find that degree of sharpening can prove too much for some subjects?

Bob.

_________________
Olympus OM-D E-M1 + M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8, Lumix 7-14mm f/4, Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH, M.Zuiko Digital 45mm 1:1.8, M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm 1:1.8.
Leica D Vario-Elmar 14mm-150mm f/3.5 - f/5.6 ASPH.
OM-D E-M5, H-PS14042E, Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:43 pm 
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Gordon Laing wrote:
Hi Bob, that's a really nice shot, and very good use of PP. You can tell there's sharpening applied, but it's still quite discreet - then when you see the original, you think, WOW, you've done a really good job - subtle but very effective.

Thanks Gordon. I did a deal of pixel peeping while I was playing with the PS Smart Sharpen filter and came to the conclusion that less was more as far as the trees were concerned. That said, I was surprised by how good a job the DPP sharpen tool did using Drazen Gal's settings when working directly on the RAW file. The biggest drawback, of course, is losing the ability to selectively sharpen different areas of the image.

Here is a 100% crop directly from the large JPEG linked to in my original post:
    Image
and here is a 100% crop from the same area using the DPP "recipe" that Drazen Gal suggested to process the original RAW file:
    Image
There was a deal of extra processing following that sharpening in PS so I can't be sure when that apparent bleed between the sky and the twigs occurred. It's noticeable at normal magnifications, if you know where to look, though personally I don't mind the effect too much.

Do you try to do as much processing as possible using your camera's supplied processing computer software or are you happy to leave it all to Photoshop or an equivalent?

Bob.

_________________
Olympus OM-D E-M1 + M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8, Lumix 7-14mm f/4, Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH, M.Zuiko Digital 45mm 1:1.8, M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm 1:1.8.
Leica D Vario-Elmar 14mm-150mm f/3.5 - f/5.6 ASPH.
OM-D E-M5, H-PS14042E, Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:42 am 
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Hi Bob, I admit I'm a fan of Adobe Camera RAW - despite their non-update policy (although remember you can still convert to DNG and open in CS2's ACR)...

But using the manufacturer's own RAW utility sometimes gives you more options - on the Nikon D300 for example, you could apply and adjust all the Active D-Lighting options. But for the basic bread and butter stuff, ACR does it all for me...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:54 am 
First of all, thank you for posting my idea. Answer to your question… I always use faithful style (U`ll see why in example photo later on). I use that degree of sharpening because I have kit lens and they don’t bring that sharp photos by default as your L series lens. I agree that +6 and 250 was a bit much for your example.
About DPP version… Well, I still like your initial PS version, but one comes from DPP just suits better for my eyes. It looks more “natural”. Maybe if U play around with curves in DPP result can be even better (shadows/highlights effect), but I think that is great just as way it is.
One note… If U export file from DPP in 16 tiff for PS, my suggestion is that U set sharpening to 0 and use only PS smart sharpening.
At last, one tip for CS3 and 40D (ACR presets):
http://www.huelight.com/page3/page7/page7.html

I have try out all of this on 400D (5D natural look fine to me) and in some cases it looks fine, but again never like DPP.

Standard style (default, +3 sharpening)
Image

Faithful style (+5 sharpening, +1 contrast, +1 saturation, 120saturaion RGB, 250sharpenss)
Image

For my taste faithful looks more natural and eye pleasing.

Another example is one 100% crop. Standard style just “hides” details in red color. Examples are a bit of focus because my mistake with focusing.
Standard
Image

Faithful
Image

Cheers!


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:33 pm 
Great shot Bob. What's the "Peripheral Illumination" correction you mention? I can't find it in DPP...
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:46 pm 
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hairyfrog wrote:
Great shot Bob. What's the "Peripheral Illumination" correction you mention? I can't find it in DPP...

Thanks for the kind words. If you open a RAW (CR2) file by double-clicking on the thumbnail in DPP and look at the Tool Palette (Ctrl+T if it's not visible) there's a NR/Lens tab. The "Tune..." button about halfway down is available provided you are working a RAW file from a compatible camera. From the Help file we have
    You can easily make corrections to drops in peripheral illumination, distortions in the subject, and color blur which occur by the physical characteristics of the lens or slightly remaining aberration.

    Compatible Cameras
  • EOS-1Ds Mark III
  • EOS-1D Mark III
  • EOS-1D Mark II N
  • EOS-1Ds Mark II
  • EOS-1D Mark II
  • EOS-1Ds
  • EOS-1D
  • EOS 5D
  • EOS 40D
  • EOS 30D
  • EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi/400D DIGITAL

    No G9 as DPP isn't provided with that camera despite it's ability to save RAW files, which is a bit of a shame. :evil:

    Compatible lenses
  • EF 14mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM*1*3
  • EF 20mm f/2.8 USM
  • EF 24mm f/1.4L USM
  • EF 28mm f/1.8 USM
  • EF 35mm f/1.4L USM
  • EF 50mm f/1.2L USM*1*4
  • EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
  • EF 85mm f/1.2L USM
  • EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM*2*4
  • EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
  • EF 16-35mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM*1*3
  • EF 17-35mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 17-40mm f/4L USM
  • EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
  • EF 28-70mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
  • EF 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6
  • EF 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 USM
  • EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM
  • EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM
  • EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM
  • EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
  • EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM
  • EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
  • EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II
  • EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 USM
  • EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II USM
  • EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS*3
  • EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS*3

    *1 Lens aberration correction functions cannot be used for the image taken with the combination of the lenses*1 and EOS 5D camera, since it is incompatible.
    *2 Lens aberration correction functions cannot be used for the image taken with the combination of the lenses*2 and EOS 5D camera whose firmware version is 1.0.5 or older, since it is incompatible.
    *3 Lens aberration correction functions cannot be used for the image taken with the combination of the lenses*3 and EOS 30D camera, since it is incompatible.
    *4 Lens aberration correction functions cannot be used for the image taken with the combination of the lenses*4 and EOS 30D camera whose firmware version is 1.0.4 or older, since it is incompatible.
I am sure these lists will be updated as new software is released: this was for version 3.2.0.4 of DPP. Yet another excellent reason to shoot in RAW if you have a compatible camera. :idea: :idea: :idea:

Bob.

_________________
Olympus OM-D E-M1 + M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8, Lumix 7-14mm f/4, Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH, M.Zuiko Digital 45mm 1:1.8, M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm 1:1.8.
Leica D Vario-Elmar 14mm-150mm f/3.5 - f/5.6 ASPH.
OM-D E-M5, H-PS14042E, Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.


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 Post subject: DPP
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 3:42 pm 
Thanks Bob. I have a slightly out of date DPP so I'll download the latest and give it a whirl .... Thanks again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:48 pm 
Hi Bob,
The Cotswolds must be such a beautiful place to live! There are so many places in the UK that I wish I'd have taken the time to visit, like there and the Lake District and the Scottish Highlands. Sometime in the future I'm definitely going to come back to visit the places that were on my doorstep all the time instead of focusing on places the other side of the globe! I always get homesick at Christmas!

Anyway, just wanted to say that's a really great image you captured and the pp work you did is mighty fine. Please do keep on posting images of that beautiful part of the world where you are :)

Happy Christmas :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:17 pm 
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Hi Mark,

Thanks for the kind words. My time in mainland China was limited to just a few days in Beijing many years ago but I've spent many days and nights in Hong Kong over a period of years and it one of my favourite world cities. Never did Christmas there though: the Szechuan Sizzling Prawns just wouldn't sit well with Christmas pudding. :shock: A Happy Christmas to you too.

Bob.

_________________
Olympus OM-D E-M1 + M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8, Lumix 7-14mm f/4, Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH, M.Zuiko Digital 45mm 1:1.8, M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm 1:1.8.
Leica D Vario-Elmar 14mm-150mm f/3.5 - f/5.6 ASPH.
OM-D E-M5, H-PS14042E, Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.


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