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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 4:38 pm 
I've been messing around with my 400D and have been running into a few problems with action shots at night. When I put the camera in Sports mode, the shutter speed slows down incredibly and while it does take continuous photos, the slow shutter speed blurs everything. Since the scene modes are "locked" should I be using a different mode at night?? Any suggestions on action photography with cloud cover, little light, or night are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:46 pm 
I have a point and shoot Kodak Z612... whenever i take night action shots i usually put the cam in full manual and just mess around with the settings until it looks like what i want.. usually ends up being around 200-400 ISO(400 is as high as my cam goes :? ) shutter speed around 1/500 , aperture 2.8 and i always use the flash (obviously).. Sometimes i just throw it in action mode and turn on the flash and it turns out pretty good.. look at my flickr i have like 2 night action shots..

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:09 pm 
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Hi SoccerandDMB, further to what Rob has said, you need more light to achieve a faster shutter speed.

Short of turning up the floodlights, investing in a brighter lens, or using a flash if you're at close range, your only option is to increase your camera's sensitivity. As Rob says, that's the ISO number, and for action shots in dim conditions, you may need to go to your maximum 1600 ISO setting. This will reduce the quality, so always make sure you put it back to Auto or 100 / 200 ISO for normal photos afterwards!

As you say though, the ISO is locked in Sports mode to Auto. So I'd suggest using one of the other modes. Rather than choosing a shutter speed, try doing it the other way round. Put it to Aperture Priority mode (Av), choose the smallest f-number to let in the maximum light, increase the ISO to 1600, and then the shutter speed the camera suggests will be the fastest you can use under the current lighting conditions.

If it still ain't fast enough to freeze the action, then you'll need to either buy a brighter lens (with a smaller f-number) or get within a few meters of the action and use a flashgun.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:48 am 
I love this website. That is exactly what I was asking for!! Thanks again for the help, and I will be putting that technique to work in the very near future.

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