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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:34 pm 
Yes I know 35mm is not good enough, thats why i started this thread in the first place. But if you use stiching 3 photos techniques it will do.

Maybe later if I feel the need for it, Which is not the case yet, i will buy a wide angle.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:23 am 
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I don't know how the 35mm f1.8 would be at stitching. There was a lot of distortion on single frames when I had mine, and I sold it after a few months. Sharpness was OK, bokeh was average to poor (in my opinion), but you couldn't argue at the price.

Bang for buck is good, but the 24-70mm whips it at F2.8+. That is a lot more cash though. After one shoot with the 24-70 it was placed on the local version of Craigslist.

As for nomenclature, there is no clarity on 'pro' lenses in the lineup. Strap a 24-70 with lens hood on and there's little doubt it's a big chunk of glass though.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:19 am 
Well actually there is a list from Nikon that with gear that qualifies for rhe orofessional user programme. So that how you can see your lens is professional or not.

http://www.europe-nikon.com/en_GB/pro/Pro_NPU.page

The 35mm F1.8G can barrel distort a bit but I always have my lens correction on in the camera menus. So I guess it wont be a problem because its corrected automatically. Maybe this weekend I am going to try to make some stiching photos and see how it works out.

Nikkor 24-70mm F2.8 lens is indeed a very nice piece of glass but its 8 or 9 times the prices of a 35mm prime lens. If I had the money for it I would buy one.

Is your 24-70mm lens as sharp at F2.8 as the 35mm is at F3.5?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 11:01 am 
I never tried a camera with auto-distortsion-control,but I suspect it does affect the sharpness of the photo,since it does the adjustments after the photo was taken. so I would say only use it if you really need a non-distorted photo.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 12:16 pm 
It will exactly do what photoshop does in post processing. But now it saves you the trouble because the camera already takes care of it. It does "lens correction". But less distortion is always good to have.

The 35mm F1.8G is not that bad, Not really worse or better then the 50mm f1.8G. At least from what I have seen on barrel distortions test charts.
I dont think it effects any sharpness, not from what i have seen anyway.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:35 am 
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"Is your 24-70mm lens as sharp at F2.8 as the 35mm is at F3.5?"

Yes, with better bokeh at any given aperture as well as less distortion.

Really the only reason for going for a prime over the 24-70 in my bag is either for a particular effect or more portability. It really is very good, but a lot of $$$ to put down.

I liked the 35mm FoV on DX but opted for a better alternative when I had the chance. Manual focus, 1/3rd stop slower, creamy out of focus areas, sharper wide open (sharper even than the 24-70) and great microcontrast.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:59 pm 
I was just trying to make some stitched photos the other day with my Nikkor 35mm F1.8G. It didn't really work out.

The software did not stitch the 2 parts. Apparently iut was not able to find similarities. Also at two photo's there was a bit of water and on the one photo the color was diffrent then on the second photo. (I used aperture priority mode)

Apparently I do something really wrong here. I am going to try to do some more photo stitching today with new pictures.

Iused both Hugin and some microsoft software both did not work.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:57 am
Posts: 1551
Location: Winterpeg, Manisnowba, Canada
@nikonfreak

I've tried stitching panoramas with the 35mm f/1.8, and it worked fine with Hugin.
Could I see some samples of the problems that you're having?

_________________
-Evan

Gear: 7 Nikon Nikkor AI-S and AF-S lenses, SB-700 flash, Nikon D7000, Nikon FM, variety of accessories

"There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs."
- Ansel Adams


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:22 pm 
@ Dubaiphil.

I noticed you have the 14-24mm wideangle nikkor lens (it was mentioned at the bottom of your posts).
How do you store hat lens properly? because the glass is kind of a big bubble. How do you prevent it from being damaged. I dont think you can even fit a lens cap on it.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:16 pm 
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Posts: 1824
It comes with a push on lens cap - stored carefully in the bag with the lens cap upright andtaken out carefully.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 4:50 pm 
nikonfreak wrote:
@ Dubaiphil.

I noticed you have the 14-24mm wideangle nikkor lens (it was mentioned at the bottom of your posts).
How do you store hat lens properly? because the glass is kind of a big bubble. How do you prevent it from being damaged. I dont think you can even fit a lens cap on it.


the same way you keep any other lens from being damaged. you don't drop it, bash the front element onto things, touch the glass as little as possible, and use as much common sense as you can when dealing with rain.

the 14-24 has a lens cap that pushes onto the lens instead of being clipped on.

don't try to keep people from buying one of the best lenses in the world because it's bubble shaped.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:46 pm 
No i am not trying to stop anyone from buying one. As a matter of fact I am thinking of buying one myself (found some money in my bankaccount).

Just was trying to think of the practical side of things (i.e. cannot use filters and bubble really sticks out on the front).

But will 14mm be enough on a DX body (21mm FOV)?
I don't wanna buy the nikkor 10-24 because of the crappy build quality. Nikon really cheapskated on that one while designing it although there is not much wrong with the image quality. Its abit to expensive for how it is build and its DX too so if i ever upgrade to fullframe I lose a lot of money there.

24-70mm is not gonna work I think on a DX. Not from a wide angle point of view anyway. I am not gonna buy both (14-24 and 24-70) so 14-24mm will be best option.

Then I will have 14-24mm, 35mm F1.8G and 70-300mm.
I was thinking about buying a 60mm macro. First I wanted to buy a 50mm F1.8G but 60mm has a nice macro bonus. I used the 35mm for a while now and it's a very nice lens but I think 50mm/60mm range would be better for me since most of the shooting is outside (mostly flowers or animals).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:28 pm 
if you're skimpy on how much cash you're gonna spend for something so risky- why not a samyang 14mm??


it's very worth it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:36 pm 
Becuase probably nobody mentioned it. And it a 3rd party lens so I have my reservations about that.

I am not saying they can't be good or better then a Nikkor. But usually they are not (like 90% of the time..).

But I will read reviews on the samyang 14mm and look on flickr what the pictures look like and let you know. It's a prime so how bad can it be?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 7:02 pm 
I just took a quick look at some websites about the samyang 14mm. I don't think it likes buildings very much.


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