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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 11:58 am 
Just been reading all the posts about polarising filters and have watched Gordon's tutorial. We're off to China and Tibet. By all accounts pollution is a problem in the larger cities making them hazy but as this type of haze usually blocks out the sun would a polarising filter be useless? Also just a UV filter in Tibet or would polarising filter work well there?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 2:51 pm 
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as this type of haze usually blocks out the sun would a polarising filter be useless?
Technically the haze is produced by bouncing the sunlight all over the place. The function of a polariser is to remove as much bounced and reflected light as possible so you only get light from the direction your lens is pointing, into the camera.

This type of filter will not remove the pollution haze but it will help to remove as much bounced light as possible. Even if it does not work for the haze you will experience it is is till a useful tool to have in your camera bag any time you are shooting near water, glass or other reflective surfaces.

Technical article about polarisation on wikipedia here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarising_filter

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 Post subject: Using polarizers
PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:44 am 
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I have a canon EOS 1000D with 18-55 mm lens. I use a Hoya CIR-PL. Even after setting the camera in P mode, ev at -2 and white balance in daylight setting, camera seems to correct the polarizer effect. Putting in manual focus worked. Is there a way to do this in autofocus. Kindly help.


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 Post subject: Re: Using polarizers
PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 2:37 pm 
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Purushothaman wrote:
I have a canon EOS 1000D with 18-55 mm lens. I use a Hoya CIR-PL. Even after setting the camera in P mode, ev at -2 and white balance in daylight setting, camera seems to correct the polarizer effect. Putting in manual focus worked. Is there a way to do this in autofocus. Kindly help.


Because the front element on the 18-55 rotates while focusing, you'd have to acquire AF lock first, then rotate your polarizer without moving the front element (because that would change the focus distance). It's not easy, but as you move up the Canon lens range, moving front elements aren't present in the designs. Unfortunately as it stands, if you adjust your polarizer for maximum effect and then try to focus, you're going to have to readjust your polarizer for the shot because it's likely in the wrong orientation again.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 11:07 am 
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Buy the best filters you can. I like Nikon. Why pay 800+ for a great sharp lens and then put on a poor quality filter? As far as cross polirization, i use 2 16 inch filters in frames facing the same direction on the studio strobes, and then adjust or turn the lens filter to not shine into the lens, a quarter coin seems to work so that you can adjust it in the preview finder. This has worked in my studio and giving best results for shooting jewelry and watches. ps 10-10 for catalougs. keep on clickkin!


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