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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:24 pm 
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hi! i was wondering what settings people use for night photography if you don't have a tripod on hand? i.e what mode, shutter speed etc...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 4:14 am 
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If you don't have a tripod, balance your camera on a ledge or post, or even the top of your bag - then use the same settings as in the workshop.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:39 am 
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Yanacek wrote:
hi! i was wondering what settings people use for night photography if you don't have a tripod on hand? i.e what mode, shutter speed etc...

Hi, like Gordon said, the only way is to put you camera somwhere so it stands steady. But i personaly prefer a different approach for nightshots.

I mostly turn of the flash (Good that My Alpha has no Autoflash) and use Aperture Priority. Depending how much I can/want to Blur out movement I reduce the ISO down to 100 to avoid noise and set the Aperture to F8 as it delivers the highest quality with most Lenses.
The camera then in itself gives me the right exposure time.

If it's over or under exposed I turn the Dial to M and adjust it. In my opinion this is the fastest way to get good results.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:48 am 
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thanks I'll give it a try sometime,
yeah i wanted to find an alternative way, using it handheld.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 2:41 am 
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Don't understand it wrong. With my approach you will need a tripod or another fixed object mostly even more!
In dark cities you can easly go over 10 sekonds of exposure time. At very dark situateions my exposuretime goes over 30 sekonds which will require me to either use BULB exposre or to adjust my aperture or ISO.

If you want to go handheld you will have to adjust this approach, but you will be dissapointed with the Image Quality!

1. Select Apterture Priority
2. Open the Aperture as much as possible
3. If possible turn on AntiShake or Image Stabilization
3. Increase the ISO Setting untill you reach exposure times which are fast enough to avoid blur.
But be aware that at dark shots you will have to go up to or over ISO 800, 1600 or more! This will lead to an immense quality loss as your imges will become very grainy.

All in all it's defenelty more recommendet to find a steady place where you can put your camera. Be inventive!
Places I have put my camera on alreay:
Cars, Stones, my Bike, pilones, posts, trashcans, bridges,... I generally take my tripod only very rarely with me :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:17 am 
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Location: Baltimore, USA
Here is the image I took at night on the Harbor of my local town Baltimore. Had a 8 sec exposure on this.

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http://flickr.com/photos/abhijittembhekar/3053834372/


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 8:03 pm 
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Welcome to the Cameralabs forums ABHIJIT, and nice shot!

Water can cause problems on long exposures, becuase even though you get nice reflections, it is of course constantly moving, so anything on it, like boats, won't be as sharp as the background. But this in itself can create a nice effect...


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:54 pm 
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Location: Baltimore, USA
Thanks Gordon. This was taken using my previous camera, i.e. Canon S5 IS. Just around 20 days back I bought new Nikon D80 and am yet to do any night photography with it. Also chances are very less these days as its too cold to go out during night. But I cant wait for 31st as there are fireworks at the same place (Baltimore Harbour). I am hoping to get some good shots on that day. I am reading all possible resources on internet about how to shoot fireworks. It would be great if you too can give some tips or even come up with a tutorial for the same. Your other workshops are useful as they are in detail and with examples. I appreciate your efforts. Thanks a lot.

Abhijit


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:52 pm 
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Hi Abhijit, I do intend to do a firework tutorial in the future, but it won't be in time for New Year 2008 / 2009 - sorry!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:56 pm 
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Hi Gordon, here are some of the fireworks shots I took in Baltimore, US.
I used a BULB mode which helped me to decide when to release shutter and close again. Also I used aperture of f/16 to get clear and sharp shot, as fireworks can easily overexpose shot if taken for long time.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/abhijittem ... 158752564/
Image

http://www.flickr.com/photos/abhijittem ... 158752292/
Image

http://www.flickr.com/photos/abhijittem ... 157919591/
Image

http://www.flickr.com/photos/abhijittem ... 158751926/
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:23 pm 
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Hi ABHIJIT, very nice shots there... did you try taking some with larger apertures for comparison? It'd be interesting to see how those had blown out...

PS - if those were taken on January 1st, don't forget you can enter one of them into patti's new year's contest in the off topic section! But you need to do so by 5th January!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:32 pm 
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Thanks Gordon. Time was very limited as this wasnt going to last for more than 20-25 mints. So I didnt had much chance to experiment with wider aperture, but as far as my understanding, wide aperture will let more light in and hence you wont get those thin lines of fireworks. You might end up getting very thick lines. Also at the point where it explodes, where maximum light is generated, that portion would easily get overexposed with wider aperture. This was my understanding based on so many photos I had studied on internet. Thats the reason, I choose to click in narrow aperture and be safe. Since this was my first attempt, I was very keen to get nice results. Next time, definitely play around with aperture and see the differences. Also looking forward for more tips from you about fireworks shots. Thanks.

I posted my pic in Patti's new year's post. Thanks Gordon.


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 Post subject: WOW GREAT NITE PIX :)
PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:14 pm 
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those r some gr8 nite pix. hello gordon and forum. i would like to take some gr8 nite pix too. im a lil confused tho, i kno aperture is useful in gettin some gr8 nite shots but do i hav it backwards?

large aperture = small f number = small dof
small aperture = large f number = large dof

its really confusing these settings. i assume the large aperture is to let as much lite come into the lens/sensor? how does the dof fit and work into this??? can someone xplain 2me, plees in easy abc language no tech jargon hahaahahaha :) thanx for ur time everyone, 1

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:54 pm 
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Your formulas are correct. Yes, larger aperture (smaller f number) lets more light in. It you have 50mm f/1.8, you can simply change aperture on lens and see how hole increases or decreases. Bigger the hole, more the light.

About DOF - (From Wiki)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
The DOF is determined by the subject distance (that is, the distance to the plane that is perfectly in focus), the lens focal length, and the lens f-number (relative aperture). Except at close-up distances, DOF is approximately determined by the subject magnification and the lens f-number. For a given f-number, increasing the magnification, either by moving closer to the subject or using a lens of greater focal length, decreases the DOF; decreasing magnification increases DOF. For a given subject magnification, increasing the f-number (decreasing the aperture diameter) increases the DOF; decreasing f-number decreases DOF.

Also, see below link for good explanation of DOF -
http://luxars.com/matrix/articles/depth ... index.html

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 Post subject: THANX ABHI
PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:01 am 
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thanx abhi. this tech info is a lil hard. i guess the best way for me is to take the xplanation of the words and flip into a easy meenin. i'll keep xperimaentin, good lookin out. 1

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