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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:39 pm
Posts: 79
Last night i tried to photograph the moon.I tried with Nikon 135mm at f 3.5 then f5.6 etc result blurred flare with white object somewhere in the blurrr

Tried with 85mm,then 55mm then all on a sony NEX-3 at 800 asa

Next took out a sony NEX-5N with 18-55mm E sony lens same result :shock: Tried all asa settings and more EV (shorter exposure than metered

How can i make an image of the moon in which i can see the holes mountains and valleys I have a Nikon 300mm but thats not very good,the reason i began with the super sharp 135mm

Help :( There are only a few days of the super moon left


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2010 7:01 pm
Posts: 1206
Location: NW England
1st thing to remember is, the moon is BRIGHT! 8) so shutter speed may be much shorter than you imagined.
Longest lens possible (& if tripod mounted, turn VR off.)
You will usually get more detail when it ISN'T a full moon.

Have a flick through this thread; viewtopic.php?f=22&t=16378&start=30 to give you some ideas of settings to try.

Start off around 1/250th sec, F8, ISO 100, -1EV & try spot metering too. Just play around till you get an acceptable shot.

I took this around midnight on Sat, but there was a bit of cloud haze. Played about in PS to try sharpen it a tad.

. Image
D7000, @500mm, iso 100, 1/320th, F7.1, spot metered, -2/3rds EV.

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Nikon D800E & D700 bodies + Nikon 200-400mm F4 VR1, 50mm F1.4G, 16-35mm f/4G VR, 105 F2.8 VR macro, 70-300mm lenses. A couple of filters, Giotto tripod & ballhead. Lowepro Slingshot 302 AW
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:23 pm
Posts: 812
Location: Boca Raton, FL, USA
Exactly right - think about what the visible moon actually is: daytime! When the moon is illuminated, you're seeing the daylight side of the moon, which means the exposure of the moon, to see all its details, needs to be the same as you would take at the beach on a sunny day.

The problem you're likely having is you are taking cameras in a wide metering mode, pointing them into the sky with a short lens, where the moon probably takes up less than 10% of your entire composition, and asking the camera to meter what it sees. Mostly, the camera sees a bunch of black sky, so it tries to meter for that...but the moon's surface is bright daylight - so when the camera meters the sky and takes the exposure, you end up with a slow shutter speed, and a badly blown out moon, probably with some motion blur too.

The keys to getting good moon detail are:
#1 - and the most important by far - the longest lens you can use! The 300mm lens would be your best bet. It you can get a longer one, do. The 18-55mm on the NEX is DEFINITELY not enough. The 135mm is still pretty short. You want to fill as much of your frame with moon in the viewfinder or on the LCD as you can...so the more lens reach, the better.
#2 - meter off the moon, not the sky! This can be done by the camera, by switching the metering mode to 'spot meter'...that will tell the camera to only meter off the very small center point and nothing else, so when you point that center point at the moon, the camera will determine its exposure only on what's directly under the little center spot. Or you can set the exposure manually as Carlos listed - keep thinking 'daytime' - lowest ISO you can, smallish aperture of F8 to F11, and shutter speed of at least 1/150 to 1/300 or so. If handheld, use the stabilization if you've got it...otherwise, consider putting the camera on a tripod, and using the 10 second timer to take the shot - that way, you can take your hands off the camera and give it time to settle down and not vibrate. VR should be off if using tripod, and best if you use the mirror lock up function too.

The longer the lens you can use, the more you can fill your screen with big, glorious moon. On Saturday, I used a 500mm lens with a 2x teleconverter for a total of 1,000mm to get this:
Image

Image

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Sony DSLR-A580 / Sony 18-250mm / Minolta 50mm F1.7 / Sigma 30mm F1.4 / Tamron 10-24mm / Tamron 200-500mm / Tamron 90mm F2.8 macro / Minolta 300mm F4 APO
Sony NEX5N / 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 / 55-210mm F4-6.3 / Pentax K adapter / Konica K/AR adapter / bunches o' Konica & Pentax lenses!

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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:39 pm
Posts: 79
Those are GOOD images :shock:

Unfortunatly its rain and clouds hear:Next clear night ill try again with 100asa & ??

I have an f4 200mm Nikon lense then that might be better than my 135 f2.8?Pity about the Nikon 300mm its really bad :cry: As is my double er which changes the image color??

i hope i get an image nearly as good as those

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:22 pm
Posts: 1304
Location: Speyer (Germany)
Usually I just use the manual mode and play with it until I like the results.

But maybe I can help with my EXIF Data.

One example:

F9
ISO 100
1/25 sec on a tripod

Handheld I'd rather use

With IS
F5.6
ISO 200
1/125 sec

Without IS
F5.6
ISO 400
1/320 - 1/400 sec


Can't check that now :mrgreen:

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Canon EF 28-80mm 3.5-5.6 USM + EF 24-105mm 4L IS USM + EF 100-400mm 4.5-5.6L IS USM + EF 50mm 1.8 II + EF 100mm 2.8L Macro IS USM + Sigma 12-24mm 4.5-5.6 EX DG HSM + Canon Speedlite 580 EX II + Nissin Speedlite Di 466


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