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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 5:45 am 
Sorry, I might have alot of typo. I'm not an English person.
I had tons of questions at first, but I used the net and library to answer most.
(if it's too much, please help me out on which ever question you are proffecient at or which ever

question you want to help me in)

Here are few:

1.Is 'focusing' to the spot i want to focus nessary if I'm using apeture f/11, f/12 and so on?
Because I have learned that everything will focus in those apeture.

2.Does 9 point, 11 point, 51 point actually matters in camera if I'm using Manual Focus?

3.How accurate is AF? some time I use MF just incase, tho I'm not THAT good enuf to diffrinciate

them but what are your thoughts on AF and MF?

4. Is there a rule on how often the sensor should be cleaned?

5. I want a 3rd party wide angle lens, most likely from Tokina and Tamron any suggestion?
(I am scared of Sigma because of their Quality control, I mean if I get a defective one, I
wouldn't be able to tell the difference. So why buy good Wide angle if I can't even tell the
difference between good shot and a bad shot? It's because of long term, my potential in photog
MIGHT increase in the future. and I want 3rd party because of low budget.)

6.I asked this question before but I wanna add it here again: Does EX series, Pro Series, Super
Performance series from Sigma, Tokina and Tamron PAR with Canon's L-series? If so, WOW, the 3rd
partly lens cost only a fraction of L-series.

7.My 50mm f/1.8 gives better bokeh at f/5 than my Kit Lens at f/5… doesn't Bokeh matters in

Apeture? Or Lenses matters too? (I get amazing pantagon with 50mm f/1.8, to some that might be a
'defect', but to me that's what i want, it's my sort of art tho 8 sided octagon would be nice =D
but i might need f/1.4 or f/1.2 for that. $.$)

8.what are your concerns on buying Cheap filters..when I say cheap I literally mean cheap like
$10 for UV and $20 for NV, CPL, B &W.

9.Ignoring all factors of what type of photography i'm doing, would a long shutter exposure give
me more noise or a higher iso would give me more noise?

10. Do you use live view? I use it 90% of the time because it displays the 'preview' shot in live
when i change shutter, apeture and iso, which I find it really helpful. Why would you want to use
viewfinder? (one answer probably, it focuses faster that's a plus for me sometime afer I get my
settings right thru live view first)

11. Tripods can turn the camera 180 degrees, is it dangerious? I mean c'mon, the screw is so ..SMALL and I use an entry level camera (low build quality)

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:11 am 
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Joined: Mon May 17, 2010 3:39 pm
Posts: 485
1. Search on the net for an "online DOF calculator" You will see clearly how it works.
Basicly it depends on the focal lenght you use, aperture and distance to the subject.
Also, for any focal lenght and aperture pair, there is a "Hyperfocal distance" .If you set the lens at that focus distance, you have acceptable focus from half that distance to infinity. Again check a DOF calculator and it will be more clear.
Before the AF lenses, there was a scale on the lens that showed you clearly what is your DOF for the aperture and distance you use. On AF lenses they don't do that anymore.

2. No

3. Whatch this video. Part 1 ,2 and 3. It helped me a lot to understand and learn how to use AF.

4.From what I've learned you do that only if it's needed, that is when you have black spots on every picture in the same places .

5,6. Sorry, I don't know.

7. In what sense "better bokeh" ?

8. From my bitter experience in life, cheap things

9. 2 aspects:
1, the longer the sensor works the greater the noise. From that I've learned this is starting to be a problem for times longer than 1 second. But I may be wrong. On long exposures the camera makes a reading of the sensor whih the shutter closed for the same time that it took to expose the sensor. Thus it records only the noise for that amount of time and after that the porocessor substracts the noise reding from the picture.
2. ISO setting is like a volume control in music amplifier. let's say you plug a cd player into an ampifier. with no music playing, if you put the amplifier on max volume you will hear it's internal noise. That's your sensor noise. When you play your CD, if it's volume is reasonably high and amplifier volume is normal, you won't hear amplifier noise, only the music. That's when you have lots of light to take your picture with low ISO. If the CD volume is low and you amplify it a lot, you will hear the music and the noise, thet's when you have low light and high ISO.
So you can have noise fom 1 or 2 or from both of them, depending what you do.

10. Why use viefinder ?
a. in bright light it's easyer to see what you are doing.
b. if you press (gently) the eyepiece against your brow that gives you another supporting point that helps you keep the camera steady.
c. you use far less battery.
d. you look more proffesional :-)
e. some other reasons that I've forgot right now

11. Hard to tell. I suppose that if you act with caution, don't press down on the camera, it's OK. But not sure if you have a heavy lens mounted. Maybe somebody else knows better.

Canon PowerShot S100
Canon 50D , SIGMA 10-20 f3.5 ,Canon EF 24-105 L IS USM, Canon EF 100/2.8 macro Canon EF 50/1.4 ,Canon EF 85 f1.8,Canon EF-S17-85 4-5.6 Old Tamron 28-300 inherited from my Canon Rebel G film camera

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 6:33 pm 

Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:23 pm
Posts: 832
Location: Boca Raton, FL, USA
To add to what Radu already said, much of which I agree...

1. As Radu mentioned, DOF will vary, but focal length makes a big difference, so yes, I'd still try to get the focus on the right you use longer lenses like 300mm, the distance between objects in the frame can be quite large and still fall outside the DOF even at a smaller aperture.

2. Agree with Radu - No. Manual focus doesn't use any of the focus systems of the camera, so it doesn't matter if you've got 1 focus point or 100 cross points.

3. AF is generally pretty accurate on today's cameras - but the mode you are in (center, spot, multipoint), and the lens itself (some lenses backfocus or front focus) can make a difference. And the conditions and subject also play a part - focus systems can struggle with uniform color areas, lack of contrast or definition, or low light situations. It's good to use MF to be sure or to fine tune (many cameras or lenses allow you to autofocus, then rotate the manual focus ring to 'fine tune' the focus).

4. As Radu said, clean the sensor only when it needs to be cleaned. If you ever want to check how dirty your sensor is, find a nice section of fairly clear sky, focus to infinity, set aperture to a small number like F22, and snap a shot. That will usually show you anything that might be on the sensor (clean the lens first, so you don't confuse the two!). Start with a bulb blower, as it will usually work 85% of the time...then if you still need cleaning, try a brush or wet swab.

5. Nothing wrong with 3rd party lenses - some are good, some not so good, price usually tells you what you're getting. Quality control shouldn't be any more of an issue than it is with your brand lenses...everyone can make a lemon. Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina are all well established and reputable lens makers.

6. Not always...generally, the idea is that those lenses are better built and often with better coatings - so they are better than the cheaper versions...but they aren't always the equivalent of a camera manufacturer's high end glass. Remember too that not even all L glass is alike - some are better than others...same goes for the 'high end' lenses from the 3rd party manufacturers. Also, many times the L designation also brings weatherproofing, all-metal build, special cases, etc...the higher end lenses from the 3rd party manufacturers may have better build and optics, but usually aren't as heavily built and solid as the very high end manufacturer glass.

7. How nice the background is on a lens, the 'bokeh', is dependent on many things, not just aperture. The shape of the aperture blades certainly makes a difference, how fast the max aperture is can shallow the depth of field more quickly yielding background blur at closer distances, focal distance also contributes as does the distance between subject and background, and even just the optical design - sometimes background blur happens at the right spot, but just looks 'ugly'...other lenses produce a lovely, rounded, smooth appearance that prompted the 'bokeh' legend.

8. As Radu is usually cheap. You might find a real gem - a very cheap filter that is actually quite good, but most of the time, you get what you pay for. I tend to stay safe, and spend a little more for the quality.

9. In general, raising the ISO will usually result in more noise than long exposures at lower ISOs. Obviously some cameras are much better than others, but if the ISO is low, an exposure can run for dozens of seconds with no real appreciable noise from the heating of the sensor, whereas increasing ISO will usually increase noise exponentially with each step up...or if using your camera's high ISO noise reduction may not show more noise, but lose details as the camera's noise reduction smears it all away. For night shots, most will use a slower shutter speed and low ISO if possible, as it gives the cleanest, nicest look with no noise. Night shooters only raise the ISO if they have to - for example, not having a tripod available, or shooting a moving subject that requires a faster shutter speed.

10. I use the viewfinder probably 85% of the time. As Radu mentioned, primary reasons are due to extra stability in my stance, easier to focus on subject in very bright light, easier to track a moving subject's motion, easier to maintain panning on a subject during continuous shooting, ability to see subjects in low light situations where the live view can't pick up enough, and battery conservation. However, I do enjoy using live view for shooting at odd angles, for tripod mounted shooting at night, or for waist-level candid style shooting. I can't say I would use live view with any other camera but Sony though - most live view systems are super slow, focus slow and poorly, and have huge delays between pressing the shutter and getting the shot. Sony has the only live view DSLR that can be used with no slowdown in focus or shooting speed...and that's really the only reason I use it. If I had another brand of camera, I'd probably not use live view much if at all.

11. Generally, even cheap entry level cameras always use a metal tripod mount, and most tripod screws will insert at least two full turns into the camera - as long as one occasionally checks that the screw is tightly turned into the camera, I would have no worries about the camera on the tripod. I walk around with a 9lb lens on my camera, mounted to a tripod quick-release plate, and often walk with the tripod slung over my shoulder holding the legs, with the camera and lens mounted to the top plate. I keep the necks trap around my hand just in case, but I've traveled like that for years.

Justin Miller
Sony DSLR-A68 / Sony 18-250mm / Minolta 50mm F1.7 / Tamron 150-600mm / Minolta 300mm F4 APO
Sony A6300 / 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 / 55-210mm F4-6.3 / 10-18mm F4 / 35mm F1.8 / 16mm F2.8 / FE70-200mm F4 G OSS / FE70-300mm F4.5-5.6 G OSS / via manual adapter, lots of Pentax K mount, Konica K/AR mount, and Leica M mount manual lenses


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