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 Post subject: How would i do this?
PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:41 pm 
Have the same scene but with the same person in the picture in diffrent poses? no what i mean?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:45 pm 
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Multiple exposures + photoshop will do it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:06 pm 
more simple than that,a long exposure time like 30 seconds. this way,the person can change it's possition & all of the possitions will be recorded in the same photo.
the tricky part is for that person to change positions very fast & keep a decent time standing still for every position : example - for 30 seconds shutter & 3 moves required,that person must stay still for about 8 seconds per position.
it's also much easier if you can control the light source,like a flash,to use it only when the person rests in a certain position. this way,no movement trail will be visibile.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 4:22 pm 
Quote:
more simple than that,a long exposure time like 30 seconds. this way,the person can change it's possition & all of the possitions will be recorded in the same photo.
the tricky part is for that person to change positions very fast & keep a decent time standing still for every position : example - for 30 seconds shutter & 3 moves required,that person must stay still for about 8 seconds per position.
it's also much easier if you can control the light source,like a flash,to use it only when the person rests in a certain position. this way,no movement trail will be visibile.


Sounds like it would be a disaster that way!!

Im guessing in photoshop you would layer the diffrent pictures?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 4:33 pm 
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To me photoshop method seems much easier. Fix the exposure, WB, focus etc. so the output is consistent. Stick it on a tripod. Then you can snap away for the shots you need. I'd probably do it in layers in photoshop, stack them on top of each other and delete the bits you don't need.

A potential problem with the long exposure method is, for lack of a better term, ghosting. Any relatively dark bits on the moving person will possibly end up showing what was there when they weren't.

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Canon DSLRs: 7D, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 15-85 IS
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS, Celestron 1325/13
Tinies: Sony HX9V.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 6:55 pm 
a disaster? it's rather easy. & you must know photoshop pretty well to do what popo said


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:00 pm 
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This level of image editing is about as simple as it gets. Open all the images. Copy and paste them to new layers of one. Use the eraser tool to show the bits you want. Done.

Providing you got the exposure setting constant and have the camera on a tripod, there's no alignment or levels to worry about.

Anyway, we all have our ways of doing things. That's my way.

_________________
Canon DSLRs: 7D, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 15-85 IS
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS, Celestron 1325/13
Tinies: Sony HX9V.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:59 am 
Hi,

Razvan, I have tried to get the multiple exposure effect with a Panasonic FZ53. I had the following problems:
1. With people, I found that they couldn't stay perfectly still for so "long" a time. There was either movement or grimaces. But, even the blinking problem was present.
2. I couldn't get the perfect exposure. Some part was too over exposed or the subject at BOTH places wasn't clear enough.
3. Noise and long exposure noise reduction wiped out practically all fine details to an extent where it was hardly possible to identify the person in the picture by his face!
4. People seemed to appear as ghosts. There was slight transparency effect due to which people didn't seem "solid" as they should.

How do I get over these problems?

Thanks in advance,
Jinay.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:20 am 
yes,it's not easy,but it's the only way to include all actions in the same photo.
1. yes,it's troublesome. I made easier scenes in some old conceptual photos. depends on what you want to achieve. btw,a person can stop blinking for 10 seconds or something...
3. btw,what do you mean you couldn't identify a person by it's face,from the effect noise & NR? are you using more than ISO 100?
4. ghosting appears if you cannot control the light,that's true. when I tried it,I kept everything dark in the room & turn on the light only when the person was in that position.

all in all,if you're doing a more complicated scene (I have no idea what is your idea),the layers in photoshop is much easier,just be sure to spot on with every exposure.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 8:37 am 
Hi Razvan,

I was using ISO80 on the Panasonic FZ35. I tried both colour and B&W. What I mean by not able to identify the person is that the face was unidentifiable due to the loss of detail which may have been caused due to the long exposure noise reduction. There were noise specks all over the image. All-in-all VERY poor image quality.

Jinay.


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