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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 4:56 pm 
I am going to the Zoo this afternoon. Its wintertime here-doubt I will walk around outside, but our local Zoo has a Desert Dome (assume full of whatever lives in the desert-so that should be fun), and an underground display ( bats & whatever), and an indoor saltwater aquarium (with a glass tunnel you can walk thu). I hear the underground thing is pretty dark so I doubt my 2 lenses will work.

Any tips for shooting in an underwater aquarium and tips for taking pics thru glass and OF GLASS ?

I have a cir-polarizer filter and the two lens in my sig pic..
If I dont get any response soon, I will post pics when I get back & with suggestions, I can return another day to do it right !
thanks,
Billfo


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:03 pm 
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Well, a polarizer cuts down reflections a lot, BUT...it also sucks up two stops of light. That means that if you are at ISO 800 without a polarizer, you're at ISO 3200 to get the same exposure WITH the polarizer!

It's a tradeoff, so try both :)

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 Post subject: ISO
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:23 pm 
ISO is another variable I wasnt considering ( yes I am a rookie photog).. So I need to shoot at a higher iso ? I usually shoot on 200... :cry:


Citruspers wrote:
Well, a polarizer cuts down reflections a lot, BUT...it also sucks up two stops of light. That means that if you are at ISO 800 without a polarizer, you're at ISO 3200 to get the same exposure WITH the polarizer!

It's a tradeoff, so try both :)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:34 pm 
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Definitely don't be afraid to use higher ISO settings where needed. It will impact the image quality, but it's still better than getting a bad shot because of motion blur. It depends on the light levels at the time of course, but go as high as needed to get workable shutter speeds.

For shooting through glass, take off any hood and put the front of the lens right up to the glass to prevent reflections. Where that isn't practical, try and wear black if you can to prevent reflections of yourself. I recently tried a polariser on glass. It can help a lot with some reflections, and less so on others. Again it depends on the situation so take it along to try.

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 Post subject: Thanks
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:42 pm 
Very helpful. Thank you !!! Im off............

popo wrote:
Definitely don't be afraid to use higher ISO settings where needed. It will impact the image quality, but it's still better than getting a bad shot because of motion blur. It depends on the light levels at the time of course, but go as high as needed to get workable shutter speeds.

For shooting through glass, take off any hood and put the front of the lens right up to the glass to prevent reflections. Where that isn't practical, try and wear black if you can to prevent reflections of yourself. I recently tried a polariser on glass. It can help a lot with some reflections, and less so on others. Again it depends on the situation so take it along to try.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:25 pm 
popo wrote:
For shooting through glass, take off any hood and put the front of the lens right up to the glass to prevent reflections.


Never tried it, but I've read that a generic no-name rubber lens hood works well for this. The rubber hood lets you press it right against the glass to prevent reflections and is flexible enough to change your angle a bit.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:26 am 
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Billfo,

I was shooting artefacts through glass and got reflections. I started shooting at an angle around 10-20 degrees or so and stood away from the glass and got no reflection from my flash. Hope you can get a clear shot in the zoo.

Try it at home on a glass door or window.

Cheers

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 Post subject: Train wreck of quality.
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 4:45 pm 
Very disappointed at my results. I took a few hundred pictures with available indoor lighting (no flash). Here are a variety of the pics I took. I cropped alittle, I only have Photosuite software -which is VERY limiting.
My photos lack the vibrance - my blacks are not black enough & the colors seem muted. Definately need alot of work.

NOTE: All these photos were taken in full manual w/ 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF DX and iso of 1000


Suggestions welcome.



Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:27 pm 
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Looks like a good start to me.

I had a quick play with the posted images with Photoshop Elements, which is the cheap cut down version. Just level tweaking brings the 1st bird and shark out. The others may benefit from a bit more poking around with brightness or shadow recovery.

If you like I can post what I get?

_________________
Canon DSLRs: 7D, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 15-85 IS
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS, Celestron 1325/13
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:23 pm 
popo wrote:

If you like I can post what I get?

ABSOLUTELY.. Please, I would like to see how these look "touched up" with software. Is "doctor up" photos with software normal ?


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 Post subject: One more
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:27 pm 
Of all the pics I took, I like this one best even if the background is too blurred.
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:34 pm 
IMO I don't think there is any problem with the backround, good bokeh and subject isolation. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:44 pm 
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This is what I did with a quick play on the bird and shark. In both cases I adjusted levels, brightness and contrast, followed by a touch of sharpening. I didn't alter the colour balance or saturation. All this would work better from originals than these smaller versions. Left image is the one posted earlier, right is with the tweaking.

Image Image

Image Image

On how far to take any processing, that's down to personal tastes. I started off doing very little, but I found myself using ever more. If anything it could be addictive. At times it can feel it is not good enough to be natural. It's gotta be better than real! But it doesn't have to be...

In general, the more you process it, the more impact you can give it, although of course it always helps to start as good as you can.

_________________
Canon DSLRs: 7D, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 15-85 IS
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS, Celestron 1325/13
Tinies: Sony HX9V.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:46 pm 
Popo, Those look much better. Thanks.. So I see I need some better photo software.. I will look around & see what most people like..

Being new at DSLR, I just really found out how important aperature is in focusing AND in light in general. Shutter speed was tricky in low light as fish move alot more than most subjects. I tried to "pan" with the fish.. The results where another mess..
Image


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:53 pm 
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I didn't really do much to those. Not being familiar with the software you have, do check and see what options there are and play with them.

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Canon DSLRs: 7D, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 15-85 IS
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS, Celestron 1325/13
Tinies: Sony HX9V.


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