Camera Labs

Hi, I am on a tight budget and I'm looking for a photo camera that has megazoom and does 1080p (not 720p) HD video.

I don't care about its size, its weight, its looks or about any fancy features in its firmware.
It only has to have strong optical zoom (10X or more) and to be able to take large stills and real HD video (1080p).
That's it.

What is the cheapest camera of that kind?
Thanks!

Canon SX1 IS, Panasonic FZ100, Nikon P100... Do you have a max budget?

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Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies

My max budget would be $250-$300.
Though, if there is anything for $100, I will take that instead.

I was recommended Nikon S8100. It could be found for as low as $180-$220.
Looking for other similar cameras in that price range.

well of the 3 ruben posted i could recommend the nikon p100, i got it and its a great camera, although many reviews state its bad, but you will need to learn how to shoot in manual for best results, and apply a bit of post processing.. if you want to know something about it feel free to p.m. me..

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nikon d90 --->af-s dx 18-105mm; tamron 90mm macro

add me up on:

flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bakica/

deviant art:
http://tbensic.deviantart.com/

----:>bakice ce vladati svjetom<:----

Agreed, the P100 certainly is a nice superzoom, and it's zoom is pretty impressive for the price. Although, I've seen it sell anywhere from $310-$350, which may be a bit pricey for your budget. Of course, there's also the SX20-IS, which has recently been replaced by the SX30-IS. The SX-20IS price may have dropped (Depending on where you purchase it). Here in Canada, I can get it for about $330.

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-Evan

Gear: 7 Nikon Nikkor AI-S and AF-S lenses, SB-700 flash, Nikon D7000, Nikon FM, variety of accessories

"There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs."
- Ansel Adams

Thanks for all the useful info, guys.
@bakica, I do need to know more about the Nikon p100. Any hands-on reviews are welcome.
What kind of post-processing does it require? Does it produce noisy photos?
I have seen quite a few very expensive cameras ($2000+) with more noise in their photos than my pocket cam.

The SX 20IS doesnt feature 1080p video;)

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Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies

@bulldozer

so if you wanted hands on video, well i don't know of such, but i can tell you a bit about camera..

so first i would like to tell you that probably all nikon ameras measure exposure to expose shadows correctly witch can result in overexposed images, that's why i prefer manual shooting mode

on the noise part: if you have read gordons review you could see that nikon features backlit sensor that is very low on noise, i used iso 800 with very low noise levels, but when shooting in high iso on more than 2/3, maybe 3/4 of zoom range, the sharpness drops a bit so it made me a few problems

on the post processing, well in post processing i use adobe lightroom 3, to correct exposure, maybe add sharpness, but mostly to increase vibrance and saturation, very quick adjustments that make your picture much better, but people told me that p.p. on this level can be skipped by altering the optimize image in camera options, i personally can't guarantee for the results since i rarely use those options.

video on the camera is nice, it's got a stereo mic on top, but the price for that is no hot shoe for flash and other accessories, and i personally hate that, but i managed to get over it.

if you want to you can check my flickr (signature), all the photos there are from this camera with a bit of processing.

oh, and one more important note: this camera doesn't shoot RAW type images

if you got any questions feel free to ask..

_________________
nikon d90 --->af-s dx 18-105mm; tamron 90mm macro

add me up on:

flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bakica/

deviant art:
http://tbensic.deviantart.com/

----:>bakice ce vladati svjetom<:----

The P100 was too expensive for him, so I still think the SX1 (maybe used) is a better option.

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Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies

well you got the point there ruben, it's just that he asked so i answered..

_________________
nikon d90 --->af-s dx 18-105mm; tamron 90mm macro

add me up on:

flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bakica/

deviant art:
http://tbensic.deviantart.com/

----:>bakice ce vladati svjetom<:----

Nikon P100 Best choice

None the less, the video quality in HD is excellent, generally I don't really notice much of a difference, but that's just me. I don't think that it's a deal-breaker myself. If you really want good video quality, your best bet would be a camcorder.

The SX-1 IS is a great camera, it uses a CMOS chip for full HD video, superb image quality and a fast burst mode. The SX-1 IS can be a bit pricey on your budget however, but as mentioned before, a second hand one may suit you well.

_________________
-Evan

Gear: 7 Nikon Nikkor AI-S and AF-S lenses, SB-700 flash, Nikon D7000, Nikon FM, variety of accessories

"There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs."
- Ansel Adams

Re that budget limit, the Fuji HS10 is US$339.00, and as it's being replaced by the HS20 in March, better prices might be found.

The HS10 has 30x optical zoom, the P100 26x.

It is 10Mpix on a 1/2.3" BSI-CMOS sensor.

ISO range is 100-6400. Almost no noise at ISO 100-200, very little at 400 and low at 800. At ISO 1600 some noise, but in RAW, cleans up well. ISO 3200 has more noise, but cleans up in RAW, okay at reduced display size. ISO 6400, generally not usable, unless the only way to get the shot. It has an enhanced Dynamic Range setting 200% and 400% at ISOs 200 and 400 respectively.

Continuous Shooting is 10-7-5-3fps in JPEG, 5 and 3fps in RAW. It saves 7 images in JPEG, 6 in RAW, and 5 pairs in RAW+JPEG. The RAW files are 15MB+. (The 10fps in JPEG, after firmware update 1.02 is Review labs tested at an actual 13.2fps at full resolution.) The P100 doesn't do RAW, as mentioned.

Shutter speed is 4-sec max in Auto, 30-sec to 1/4000th other modes. The P100 is 8-sec to 1/2000th.

The P100 has a Li-Ion power-pack and does 250 shots. On 4 x AA Eneloops my HS10 does 400+.

Video is 1920 x 1080, 1280 x 720, 640 x 480, in H264/MOV. It does several levels of highspeed video / slow-motion replay. The most useful is 640 x 480 at 120fps, that plays at 1/4-speed, also H264/MOV.

The HS10 has more external control buttons than most entry-level DSLRs, so isn't "Menu-driven". On the left rear - buttons for ISO, Metering, AF-Mode, Focusing and White Balance. Hold each and click the Command Dial to change. (Or the Left-Right Arrows on the 4-way pad.)

The Mode Dial has 2 Preset positions for Scenes modes, and of course a Custom set. I set up Custom as Manual mode, Manual Focus, and RAW. That then allows using std Manual as JPEG, and clicking to Custom next to it to add RAW mode. That gives the Continuous 13-7-5-3fps in Std Manual, and instant-select Manual with 5fps and 3fps in Custom Manual RAW.

Manual Focus works in all Modes, and used properly is fast and accurate. Press the AE/AF button - the camera uses the AF to "approximate" focus - then "rock" the focus-ring on the barrel a few mm either way to "centre" best focus. (The 'magnified centre' in MF can be turned off.)

Usual carry-mode with the Camera turned-off is Shutter Priority, JPEG, preset to use EVF when turned-on.

Not the "perfect" camera, but once you learn it, very capable. Just on the Previews, I think I prefer it to the new HS20.

Dave.

I personally am not a HUGE fan of the HS-10, I used to really like it, until I got the chance to play around with it at the store. I think that Fuji was trying to make too much of a DSLR-esque camera, the zoom barrel is annoying (I'll be honest, if I want a point and shoot I want the little zoom rocker next to the shutter button to be able to take quick pics) and the EV and the display just aren't good enough for the manual focus. Video isn't bad, but zooming on the lens once again is an inconvenience. The best point of it (IMO) is the IQ, it's not stand-out superb, but it's up there with the other top competitors.

_________________
-Evan

Gear: 7 Nikon Nikkor AI-S and AF-S lenses, SB-700 flash, Nikon D7000, Nikon FM, variety of accessories

"There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs."
- Ansel Adams

EvanK - If you only played with it at the store that didn't give you much idea of it. The HS10 is fairly complex, and does its things in the "Fuji-ist" way.... That is - often not in an "expected" CanNikon way. (I refer to that elsewhere as "Fuji-isms".)

The camera is very solidly built - meaning that the twist-zoom frees-up after some use. The twst-zoom is very fast - something opposite to the powered long-zoom cameras. The Canon SX30, indeed, needs a special Zoom-Reset button, so that if the user goes off-target at or near full zoom, to get back on-target, hit the button, it power-zooms out - retarget - then back in. With the HS10 - slight twist/twist, and back on target.

You would have been using the EVF/LCD at factory-default in the shop - 30fps and quite dim. Reset to 60fps and go 2 clicks up on brightness - the difference is "chalk'n'cheese".... That doesn't "chew-up" battery power - because you turn off the 3.0/1.5-sec Review, and the annoying EVF/LCD Auto-Changer.

That also allows you to then set which - the EVF or LCD - the camera starts with. There is also a button to the right of the EVF to switch between.

As I've said elsewhere - the JPGs - Std or Fine, aren't as good as an SX10's Superfines - however, the HS10 RAWs beat JPEGs, anyway.

If you set the EVF/LCD up properly, the Manual Focus works very quickly and well. On a tripod, using the LCD, the MF magnifying centre rectangle is useful - but, handheld using the EVF, can be distracting - I tend to leave it Off. (Adjust the diopter dial beside the EVF to sharpest for your eyesight.)

The HS10 isn't a simple camera that works at its best in Auto or Program. (A lot of early users who wanted that, sent their HS10s back!) It's best in the Priority Modes or Manual. You DO have to "tell it what to do".

At long zoom - and many users complain about it, if not aware how to correct for it - the AF, particularly if not a light-bright day - "hunts" before locking-in. That can lead to non-sharp images. Instead, use MF. Zoom to the desired range, and as you start to compose the frame, also hit the AE/AF button.

The camera uses the AF function to approximate focus, instantly (as it doesn't need to lock-on) - which makes the image sharp enough to complete composing - and as you do, if you're holding the camera correctly, your left fingers are at the focus-ring. Centre the focus sharpness and shoot. You can then re-aim/re-compose - re-centre the focus, and shoot again.

At or near full zoom, if you don't have the Shutter speed up above 1/125th - use Continuous - the 5fps speed with JPEG or RAW works well - and after getting focus correct - shoot several frames.. That will work across any slight camera movement, and give one or more frames in best focus.

That can help avoid going too far up-ISO to increase the Shutter speed, hand-held.

While some "keener" reviewers try to "compare" the HS10 with a DSLR (one "compared" it to a Nikon D300 - and for some strange reason decided that the Nikon and lens combination - over $5,000.00 - was better than the under-$500.00 HS10 - strange, that...!) - when it's nowhere near to even entry-level DSLRs.

If people "want" DSLR performance, standards, and results - the way to get those is to buy a DSLR and a few lenses... But they won't do it on new equipment for the under-$500.00 prices of the HS10 / Panny FZ100 / Canon SX30, etc - range of Bridge Zooms.

Dave.