Hi Cr4zYH3aD, I sure do!
(and I've moved this to a different section - hope that's ok!)
The trick with fireworks, as with other night photography is a relatively long exposure and ideally somewhere to keep your camera steady. Since there’s unlikely to be a foreground subject, it’s best to switch your flash off. Additionally you can save your camera from focussing heartache by manually setting it to infinity, indicated by a figure 8 on its side.
If your composition includes buildings or anything below the horizon, you’ll definitely need somewhere to keep it steady. But if you’re pointing upwards and only have the sky, you may be able to get away with handholding. Inevitable camera shake may result in some wavy trails, but you may still achieve a pleasing result.
You should also be prepared to experiment with different exposures and take lots of photos to maximise your chance of success. Fireworks can vary greatly in brightness, so you simply have to try different settings and see what's working at that particular time.
Sparklers are a potentially great but challenging photo opportunity. A long exposure will capture the sparkles, but leaves the person dull and blurred. A flash will illuminate the person, but used alone, will not record the sparkling.
The simple solution therefore is to combine both techniques. Set your exposure to around two seconds in shutter-priority mode and force the flash to fire, by cycling through the flash options until the lightening symbol is on; some cameras can do all this automatically using a "slow synchro" mode.
Better still, where possible, use a “rear-curtain” option which fires the flash at the end of the exposure, thereby freezing the action with a trail behind it.