Free Shipping on ALL Products
camera reviewsbest cameraslens reviewsphotography tipscamera forumvideo toursphotography bookssupport me
It is currently Fri Apr 25, 2014 6:54 am

All times are UTC




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Deneb and NGC7000
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 6:12 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Bristol, UK
Was out last night with my mount and camera only this time.

I have made an adapter plate allowing me to mount my DSLR direct to my mount to try widefield and last night was my first attempt.

Deneb and NGC700 (North America Nebula)

Image

Not a perfect shot by any stretch of the imagination but for my first Im very pleased with it.

This was taken with my Nikon D200 and 70-200VR lens. Taken at 70mm, ISO800 and 10 x 120s shots stacked and processed in DSS and finished off in CS4. Darks were taken by I only managed to get two before my battery died. As a result there is noticeable ampglow in the corners and there are a couple of dust bunnies which need to be removed either by cleaning my sensor or getting round to sorting a rig out for flats to be taken.

Thanks for looking and any comments are welcome.

_________________
Lee Diggle
My Astronomy Blog | My Photography Gallery


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 6:50 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:57 am
Posts: 1551
Location: Winterpeg, Manisnowba, Canada
Very nice!

I'm still a bit confused on the whole shooting darks thing, but I'm sure that I'll learn sometime.

_________________
-Evan

Gear: 7 Nikon Nikkor AI-S and AF-S lenses, SB-700 flash, Nikon D7000, Nikon FM, variety of accessories

"There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs."
- Ansel Adams


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:06 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Bristol, UK
Cheers Evan.

Darks are simple enough. You take them at the end of the session with the lens cap or scope cover on and are a record of the sensors noise and ampglow. They need to be taken at the end of a session so they represent an accurate record of what the sensor produces when warm. These are then used to remove these defects from the subs.

_________________
Lee Diggle
My Astronomy Blog | My Photography Gallery


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:57 am
Posts: 1551
Location: Winterpeg, Manisnowba, Canada
That's neat! Back in the days of film, I (Well, actually my father) used to shoot film astrophotography. But, of course, there were no overlays or darks or flats. We're looking at buying a D90 or a D7000 together to do some astrophotography.

By the way, did you say you used DSS (Seep Sky Stacker)? I've heard good things about it, and it's also free! Is it a good program?

Also, what are flats? I'm relatively new to digital astrophotography once again, so I have a few questions. And finally, do you use a netbook or a little laptop with your camera and scope when you're shooting the sky?

Thanks!

_________________
-Evan

Gear: 7 Nikon Nikkor AI-S and AF-S lenses, SB-700 flash, Nikon D7000, Nikon FM, variety of accessories

"There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs."
- Ansel Adams


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:47 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:52 pm
Posts: 2173
Location: The Netherlands
You dont have modded your camera, do you?
Nicely done :wink:

_________________
Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 7:21 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Bristol, UK
Hi Guys,

@Evan, yes the subs were stacked in DSS. A great piece of freeware which I am still playing about with - looks quite a powerful editing tool even though the manual says it isnt!

wrt to flats these are images taken at the same camera orientation (is mounted on a scope) and focal length as the subs but with an evenly illumintated lightpanel infront of the lens / scope. The idea being to recorde any vignetting caused by the scope etc and to record any dust bunnies.

In answer to the net book question I ususally have my Macbook pro outside so I can refer to stellarium. At some point I wish to get a dedicated CCD camera and autoguider which will mean being tethered to a laptop.

@Ruden, my camera isnt modded hence I had to really tweak the red channel to show the nebulosity and give it the red hue. The original images was pale and whitewashed with no colour.

_________________
Lee Diggle
My Astronomy Blog | My Photography Gallery


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 7:27 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:52 pm
Posts: 2173
Location: The Netherlands
Nice! Then Ive to try Deneb too (they say Canons are more sensitive to IR) :lol:

_________________
Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 7:29 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Bristol, UK
They certainly are although to get the most out them (as well as nikons) they need modding.

I cant wait to get back out and try another set of sub slightly lower to see if I can get any more detail in NGC7000. This is what I told the mount to look at but my alignment was obviously off :roll: :roll:

_________________
Lee Diggle
My Astronomy Blog | My Photography Gallery


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:47 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:52 pm
Posts: 2173
Location: The Netherlands
The problem is that even in this small village that I cant use the 50mm full open too long, due to a bit light pollution. I never tried it, but what do you think that will be avarage? The 135mm F/2,8 with 70s @f/2,8 became a bit overexposed (really a bit), but the 50mm is of course much wider. Id like to get Deneb on the picture, what do you recommend? Maybe the telelens?

_________________
Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:54 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Bristol, UK
It difficult with LP. I live on the outskirts of Bristol and have Bristol International Airport to deal with as well. I have tried some shots at 50mm and like you they were very red!

The above was at 70mm with the lens stopped down to f5.6 using 120s shutter speeds. There was no visible light pollution on the subs as a result. You generally want to stop lenses down anyway to find the sweet spot! I will be trying this again soon at a longer focal length to see what happens.

BTW, If you are shooting with a canon you can get a CLS clip in light pollution filter:

http://www.astronomik.com/en/eos_clip-filters.html

its a shame they dont do it for Nikons :(

_________________
Lee Diggle
My Astronomy Blog | My Photography Gallery


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:28 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:52 pm
Posts: 2173
Location: The Netherlands
But isnt it the best to have the lens @ f/1,7 and a short exposure than a long exposure with f/5,6? Of course the lens is sharper, but youll have to guide or make a precise polar allignment.

_________________
Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:35 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 12:48 pm
Posts: 7999
Location: UK
Ooh, coincidently I was also looking at clip in light pollution filters from a US site, didn't know the Germans did one too :) Might be easier with customs fees... Thanks!

_________________
Canon DSLRs: 7D, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 15-85 IS
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS, Celestron 1325/13
Tinies: Sony HX9V.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 4:11 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Bristol, UK
Quote:
But isnt it the best to have the lens @ f/1,7 and a short exposure than a long exposure with f/5,6? Of course the lens is sharper, but youll have to guide or make a precise polar allignment.


It is in terms of being able to grab as much light as possible but the 'quality' of the light will suffer from the lens not being stopped down to the 'sweet spot'.

Depending on the focal length used you can get away with 30-60sec exposure before trailing with a tracking set-up. For example you may get away with 30s@50mm but 60s@10mm.

Popo, I really wish I could get a Nikon one!!! So gutted.

_________________
Lee Diggle
My Astronomy Blog | My Photography Gallery


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 4:44 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 12:48 pm
Posts: 7999
Location: UK
On the bright lens argument, that is kinda what I was hoping to use DSLR lenses for and was a secondary question in my other thread: are some lenses better than others for astro? I know the cheaper ones can be a bit poor as you go off axis for example... I haven't looked yet, but are there lists of what's known to be good or bad? Anyone got a Noct Nikkor spare? :D

_________________
Canon DSLRs: 7D, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 15-85 IS
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS, Celestron 1325/13
Tinies: Sony HX9V.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 5:09 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:52 pm
Posts: 2173
Location: The Netherlands
A lens that's sharp wide (or almost wide open) and a big aperture.
To start with you dont want to have a long telephoto lens. M31 fits in small telelenses too, so imo the 70-200 lenses are great for astrophotography since theyre sharp and have a nice focal lenght.

_________________
Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

All words, images, videos and layout, copyright 2005-2012 Gordon Laing. May not be used without permission.
/ How we test / Best Cameras / Advertising / Camera reviews / Supporting Camera Labs

Webdesign by Alphabase IT
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group