Camera Labs

Hey guys, did my 1st action photography on my Godson's hockey game. I was using the 40-150mm kit lens on the E-510 in shutter priority, and was having a bit of a problem at 1st with blurred and dark pics.

This was mainly my settings
shutter between 1/40-1/60
ISO 400
+2 EV
Center weighted or spot metering
C-AF
3900-4500k white balance
IS2 on, which is stabilization used for panning

Tried to up the ISO to compensate for higher shutter speed, but noise was starting to appear.

Just wanting some inputs and advice

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Olympus Evolt E-510, E-520, E-30
Zuiko Digital 14-54mm f2.8-3.5 and 50-200mm ED SWD f2.8-3.5
Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs wireless triggers
Cactus V2s wireless triggers
FL-36R, FL-50R, Vivitar 285HV x 2

http://www.flickr.com/photos/supervf1/ <--- My Flickr

hmm i can see your troubles.. the ice probably really throws off the metering.. try to edit tone curves on that last pic to make it a little brighter.. but like i said that bright ice probably really throws off the metering... i would def go with center weight and make sure that you have the center on the player your photographing.

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Nikon D80/MB-D80/ ML-L3
AF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6, AF 50mm f/1.8D
SB-600
Vivtar 2800
My flickr
~Dan Nelson~

I've shot some NCAA hockey and I've got two suggesions.

1) Custom white balance. I'm not sure exactly how you do it on an Olympus, but before the next game, go down and get a picture of just ice, then use that as a starting point.
2) Hockey is one of those times when it really makes sense to shoot in manual mode. I'd suggest cranking up the ISO to 1600, opening the aperture all the way, and then gradually adjusting your shutter speed until you get brighter pictures (just don't go too far or you'll get blurry pics!)

Hope this helps!

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5D mk II | 50mm 1.4 | 28mm 1.8
My Flickr

Thanks guys, I mainly used spot metering, with C-AF, and switch to the center AF point. If you go to my flickr site, it's the 1st 2 pics, I got my EXIF data there. I tried to crank the ISO to 800, but noise was starting to appear, though I may have alleviated that by cranking the noise reduction to high, in expense of sharpness and detail. Unfortunately, though the kit lens did well, I avoided zooming out to the lens's max focal length, as the pics would get dark or would get more blurry. Minimum aperture zoomed all the way out is f5.6

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Olympus Evolt E-510, E-520, E-30
Zuiko Digital 14-54mm f2.8-3.5 and 50-200mm ED SWD f2.8-3.5
Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs wireless triggers
Cactus V2s wireless triggers
FL-36R, FL-50R, Vivitar 285HV x 2

http://www.flickr.com/photos/supervf1/ <--- My Flickr

my tips:

1. use spot metering, point to the athlete.

2. try to get closer as possible to the ring

3. don't afraid to use high ISO, 1600 or 3200, don't afraid of noises, they are sexy

4. Don't use high noise reduction, deal with the noise later in image editing software (because not only loss detail but also speed)

5. u need 1/640 to freeze the action, but i think to be realisitc in lowlight indoor arena, 1/100-200 is needed.

6. use the lowest aperture u can

7. buy and use faster lens - f 2.8 or lower.

I have ha the same problems...I have had two chances to photograph ice hockey games from the box...and it is the toughest thing ive done....

my next alternative is the following:
Older OM style lens (50mm f1. with an adapter for the e-510

i tried taking shots with manual focus and it does not seem to be dificult.

I will let you know what happens.....
These were my previous ones :

Date/Time: 2008:04:14 19:50:04 Resolution: 1024 x 692
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 50.0mm
Exposure Time: 0.0025 s (1/400)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO Equiv.: 1600
Whitebalance: Manual
Metering Mode: matrix
Exposure: Manual




Flash Used: No (auto)
Focal Length: 31.0mm
Exposure Time: 0.020 s (1/50)
Aperture: f/5.1
ISO Equiv.: 400
Whitebalance: Auto

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Digital SLR Photographer as of Janurary 2008
NIKON D90 w/grip || D300 w/grip || D2x || NIKKOR 18-105 ED VR || NIKKOR 50mm 1.8 || NIKKOR 70-300 ED VR || NIKKOR 70-200 2.8 || SIGMA 28-70 2.8 || 2x Teleconverter || SB-900 Flash || SB-600 Flash || SLIK Tripod

TheHawk1973, since you and I use the same camera, definetely lemme know how you did. I may have to take tip 7 from Enche Zein and cough up a better lens. *patiently waits for Uncle Sam's stimulus check*

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Olympus Evolt E-510, E-520, E-30
Zuiko Digital 14-54mm f2.8-3.5 and 50-200mm ED SWD f2.8-3.5
Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs wireless triggers
Cactus V2s wireless triggers
FL-36R, FL-50R, Vivitar 285HV x 2

http://www.flickr.com/photos/supervf1/ <--- My Flickr

That will set you back about 1500.00 or so ..... for a 600.00 camera.... can you justify that?

Im doing it the CHEAPSKATE way ....
a 50mm f1.8 and 150mm 2.8 MANUAL focus OM mount lenses
an om to 4/3 adapter

all for about 110.00CAD

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Digital SLR Photographer as of Janurary 2008
NIKON D90 w/grip || D300 w/grip || D2x || NIKKOR 18-105 ED VR || NIKKOR 50mm 1.8 || NIKKOR 70-300 ED VR || NIKKOR 70-200 2.8 || SIGMA 28-70 2.8 || 2x Teleconverter || SB-900 Flash || SB-600 Flash || SLIK Tripod