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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 1:23 pm 
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I'm a beginner however want to get into landscape photography.

I'm looking to get a wide angle or ultra wide angle lens as I understand these are the types of lenses that you want for landscape photography. I also gather that the focal lengths become tricky when you have a crop sensor as you have to multiply the focal length by 1.6 to determine what the actual focal length is. I see that Canon has a EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM however in reality the focal length of this lens is more 16-35mm. I'm not sure if this would work for landscape photography as I've heard that something around 12mm is good for landscape. I've now learned that Sigma offers a 8-16mm however I worry about distortion (after what I've read) and I also note that filters cannot be applied and I've read that there are some handy filters that can be used to enhance landscape photography.

I've read that many wide and ultra wide angle lenses can have distortion and as I am completely new to this, I think I would prefer a lens with as little distortion as possible. I realize this may mean that I will have to sacrifice on the minimum focal length as it seems that smaller focal lengths fall victim to distortion. I don't think I want a fisheye lens as I'm not overly keen on the look/feel of the images it produces.

It seems that ideally, you should have a full frame camera if you want to be able to get the true wide angle/ultra wide angle focal lengths however I'm looking for my best option given that:

1. I am newbie (not knowledgeable on how to correct for distortion, vignetting etc.)
2. I have a crop sensor DSLR and
3. My main interest is "grand" landscapes with lovely clouds etc.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 12:08 am 
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Bear in mind that distortion and some aberrations are software correctable if a shot requires it. If memory serves Canon's DPP RAW converter has profiles for Canon lenses built in. Some cameras also have corrections built in - I'm unclear whether that extends to barrel distortion on the 70D. With third party lenses you'd typically have to use a third party converter such as DxO Optics Pro to correct distortions etc. but you would have to make sure that your desired combination is on the list of built in profiles. Some converters allow you to build your own profiles but I have a feeling that most of us never get around to setting those up... :lol:

Bob.

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Olympus OM-D E-M1 + M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8, Lumix 7-14mm f/4, Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH, M.Zuiko Digital 45mm 1:1.8, M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm 1:1.8.
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OM-D E-M5, H-PS14042E, Gitzo GT1541T, Arca-Swiss Z1 DP ball-head.
Astrophotography: TEC 140 'scope, FLI ML16803 camera, ASA DDM60 Pro mount.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 12:41 pm 
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How wide you need or want to go depends on the subject before you. There is no rule that says you have to go wider than xx mm for landscapes. People even use longer focal lengths where appropriate.

As for image quality, that is a harder part to work out. Some more critical than myself would pay particular attention to the edge performance of a lens, as that's where they generally perform worst.

As Bob said, there are corrections for things like vignetting and distortion. Sharpness is harder to correct for but Canon's software does make a go of it.

10mm on crop is still pretty wide and the chances are there will be few occasions where you need wider. Also don't forget, assuming the scene is fairly static, it is possible to take multiple shots and recombine them later to cover a bigger area than a single shot allows. This technique also offers more potential resolution throughout the image, although you will have to do more work to get the result.

Personally I got the EF-S 10-18mm, since it is now low cost. I didn't consider going up to the 10-22 to be worth it for me. Do research and decide what you think will work best for you.

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Canon DSLRs: 7D2, 7D1, 5D2, 1D, 600D, 450D full spectrum, 300D IR mod
Lenses: EF 35/2, 85/1.8, 135/2+SF, 28-80 V, 70-300L, 100-400L, TS-E 24/3.5L, MP-E 65, EF-S 10-18, 15-85
3rd party: Zeiss 2/50 makro, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Sigma 50/1.4A, 150 macro, 120-300 f/2.8 OS
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:55 am 
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Welcome to the forum! :)

I bought my EF-S 10-22mm lens long before the EF-S 10-18mm was announced. The latter is a lower-cost option, but I have no regrets, as I find the full range from 10mm to 22mm to be very useful. Notably, the 10-22mm has less distortion than the newly-announced EF 16-35mm f/4L! (I still plan to acquire the 16-35/4L, a funds allow, to use on my larger-sensor Canon cameras that cannot function with EF-S lenses.)

Any lens wider than about 28mm will require careful attention to holding very level, along the front-to-rear axis, when shooting, to avoid vertical lines, such as buildings and trees, leaning inward or outward. Even the best wide-angle lenses will show this characteristic, which is independent from lens-induced barrel distortion.

As already stated in other posts, barrel distortion can be corrected, either in post-processing, or in-camera, if the camera model has the ability. More importantly, proper composition can minimize the effects of distortion, or use it creatively. Notably, moderate barrel distortion is not usually noticeable in natural landscape images, being more of a concern for urban landscapes and city-scapes.

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Canon 7D2/7D/5D/40D/1D2N; Nikon F6/D700/FM3A/1Dx/Coolpix A; Canon 40mm 2.8 STM, 135L, 50L, 35L, 50mm 1.8 I, 100mm 2.8L Macro, 10-22mm EF-S, 400mm 5.6L; Nikkor 50mm 1.2 AI-S, 50mm 1.4G, 50mm 1.8D, 16mm 2.8D Fisheye, 180mm 2.8D, 100-300mm 5.6 AI-S, 18mm 2.8D, 45mm 2.8 AI-P, Micro 60/2.8G; Voigtlander 90mm f/3.5 SL II


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:23 am 
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I like to read it. It was really good time killer.


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