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R0Y.1
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 4:15 am 
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Whoaaa! Honestly, my favourite is the 2nd one!! That scenary with the deers is just great! But I think you could get a brighter, less grainy shot if you had used a wider apperture and slower shutter speed or the "landscape" scene mode for the "landscape" shot, and may be a bigger lens for the close-up?
From the EXIF data:

Quote:
Exposure time: 0.0111111
F number: 5.6
Exposure program: 8
ISO speed rating: 200
Exposure bias: -1
Metering mode: 5
Flash: 16
Lens focal length: 210
Sensing method: 2
Custom rendered: 0
Exposure mode: 1
White balance: 0
Focal length in 35 mm film: 315
Scene capture type: 1
Contrast: 0
Saturation: 0
Sharpness: 0
Subject distance range: 3


Why EV -1? And why the flash? Does it actually work in such vast landscape shots?

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kpr
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 7:35 am 
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From #2,
no flash used... :?:

Camera Model: PENTAX K100D

Date/Time: 2007:08:21 06:31:21

Resolution: 800 x 532

Flash Used: No

Focal Length: 210.0mm (35mm equivalent: 315...

Exposure Time: 0.011 s (1/90)

Aperture: f/5.6

ISO Equiv.: 200

Exposure Bias: -1.00

Whitebalance: Auto

Metering Mode: matrix

Exposure: LandscapeMode

Exposure Mode: Manual

Exposure Mode: Auto bracketing

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R0Y.1
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 10:03 am 
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That's wierd! The EXIF info says flash 16. I also noticed this in some of your other shots where it simply doesn't make any sense. See this screenshot:
Image
I'm using opera.
But I think that's either a bug or something I really don't understand, because when I open the image in Irfanview (after saving to HDD), the EXIF says no flash fired! This is the full data:
Quote:
Make - PENTAX Corporation
Model - PENTAX K100D
Orientation - Top left
XResolution - 72
YResolution - 72
ResolutionUnit - Inch
Software - K100D Ver 1.00
DateTime - 2007:08:21 06:31:21
YCbCrPositioning - Co-Sited
ExifOffset - 602
ExposureTime - 1/90 seconds
FNumber - 5.60
ExposureProgram - Landscape mode
ISOSpeedRatings - 200
ExifVersion - 0221
DateTimeOriginal - 2007:08:21 06:31:21
DateTimeDigitized - 2007:08:21 06:31:21
ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr
ExposureBiasValue - -1.00
MeteringMode - Multi-segment
Flash - Flash not fired, compulsory flash mode
FocalLength - 210 mm
FlashPixVersion - 0100
ColorSpace - sRGB
ExifImageWidth - 532
ExifImageHeight - 800
InteroperabilityOffset - 52242
SensingMethod - One-chip color area sensor
FileSource - Other
SceneType - Other
CustomRendered - Normal process
ExposureMode - Manual
White Balance - Auto
FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 315 mm
SceneCaptureType - Landscape
Contrast - Normal
Saturation - Normal
Sharpness - Normal
SubjectDistanceRange - Distant view

Maker Note (Vendor): -
Mode - Auto
Quality - Best
ISO - 200
White Balance - Auto

Thumbnail: -
Compression - 6 (JPG)
XResolution - 72
YResolution - 72
ResolutionUnit - Inch
JpegIFOffset - 52368
JpegIFByteCount - 2630


But I am still curious about why you used EV -1. Noise? I guess you could do with a ISO100 but looks like the K100D doesn't have it. Condolences.

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kpr
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 10:57 am 
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RE: exp -1

When I first started out I had alot of complaints about pics posted being "dark"...
They appeared fine to me.
A little investigation showed that my puter monitor and my cam screen were both cranked for brightness.
I guess seeing the pics on the cam would make me set it that way??
I'm far from a pro photog and definately not really a puter person, all trial and error but will admit to "getting better at it"...
Wish I had found this forum back then :roll:
Reading and absorbing/remembering daily here.

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R0Y.1
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:17 pm 
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Hey buddy! Are you trying to call "me" a pro??? Man! I just started. You have a lot more experience than me. I am simply trying to figure out which settings work best in different situations. With a DSLR and RAW, you have a lot more freedom to experiment than me with my toy :)
Keep up. And when the weather's fine, freeze 'em critters ;)

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kpr
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:03 pm 
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Lil "action" maybe?


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R0Y.1
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:13 pm 
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YEAH BB YEAH! :D That's what I'm talking abt. "Frozen" action. Exposure time: 0.00133333 in ISO 200. DSLR, DSLR... I gotta have 1 some day. Did you notice that only the 6th one has a shallow background? I particularly like this type of shots. It has a f number 5.6 wheras the others have a greater f number. So, it's clear that to get that shallow bg, you have to keep that f number to a minimum. Can you try some shots in ap. pr. mode with such setting please?

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kpr
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:13 am 
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Well I've been up in the big city for the week on a course.
2 more weeks to go, but...hasn't shut the cam down though :wink: .
The light has been atrocious as I haven't gotten out of class til after 5 each day.
The worst part is over, things "might" slack up a bit and hopefully we'll have some decent weather/light.
Now these ones are kinda "urban" and all but.....I gotta get this guy in good light before the ivory drops off!!!
My first time ever using a flash on a deer...hehehe :twisted:

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R0Y.1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:13 am 
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Cool! I like the DOF on these... particularly on #3. You could allow some +ve Ev on this one. Lately I've been playing with HDR, and I think that is a gr8 method to get proper exposure with a lot of details on the pictures which have a lot of contrast. With a DSLR and faster continuous shooting speed, you can get more out of that. Although it's difficult to achieve that with moving subjects. What you do is this:

First try to keep your camera very still. Tripod is good.
Switch to Av mode and use exposure bracketing.
Take at least 3 pics, each with different exposure bias (compensation). Like, 1 with 0EV, 1 with -2Ev, and another with +2 Ev. Now merge (superimpose) these images into a single one. The resultant image has a very high dynamic range, with all parts of the pic being properly exposed. No more burn-outs or underexposed areas. It's usually used for landscapes but it all depends on your creativity. One software which does this great job is MediaChance Dynamic Photo HDR. Photomatix and Photoshop are your other, costly alternatives.
Check out this guide too.

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kpr
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 2:47 am 
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Ha...lol

Won a Photmatix Pro 3 program :lol:
These deer stand still long enough.
Sooooo, my first attempt.....

I think the colour is a bit "off" too much green tint.
Overall it could have been brightened some.
I doesn't really look real but I was there taking the pic in crappy light.
I KNOW the original is a better representation of the real thing.
What do ya think?

Go easy on me now...see--FIRST crack at it. :wink:


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Last edited by kpr on Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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R0Y.1
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 8:39 am 
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Well, the original isn't bad at all. It just looks a little dark. But honestly, it is sorta exposing the deer almost fully. So hdr might seem unnecessary for this shot. If the original is RAW, you can get quite satisfactory results by simple adjustments. You can also adjust the saturation/hue/brightness/contrast on the resultant HDR file itself, to get a little bit more realistic look. I think an average of the above two would be more like it. Here the background is not important. But say, if you wanted to cover both the deer and the background, then you could take multiple pics in different apertures, and merge/tone map them to get the desired result. Try some landscape shots with a cloudy sky and grazing deers in different exposures and then apply this technique. You"ll see the difference. Looking forward to see it.

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kpr
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:32 am 
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That was 3 laid over each other.
Don't think I am set for big exposure changes though.
That was JPEG too.

Doesn't or wouldn't the subject have to be in relatively the same spot for it to work?
I am mostly freehand when chasin critters and it mentions better results with a tripod and scenery in the tutorial.
I'll do some playing around and get back to ya.

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R0Y.1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:53 am 
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Yes, obviously. Too much movement would be disastrous. The good thing, though, is that, for shots like those, you don't have/need to get close at all. So they may give you that moment for a few seconds. You just need a LOT of patience AND alertness to pull the trigger (or push the shutter :lol: ) at the right moment. I know it's near impossible for the shutter guy, but the results would be worth the pain. You are a very lucky guy with all that abundance of wildlife around.
P.S.
Using -1 to +1 instead of -2 to +2 can save much time ;)

Also, your moving subjects need not stay frozen all along. Take a well-exposed shot of the animals first. Then keeping the camera frozen, complete your multi-exposure shots of the sky/landscape. While doing the HDR, treat the moving ones in the later shots as ghosts and remove them.

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kpr
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:48 am 
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Light was a bit more forgiving today,still not the best.

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kpr
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:07 am 
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Dropped to -25C yesterday so they sent us "home" early from class.
Ya know I just couldn't pass up the opportunity to get there while the sun was still up :twisted:

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