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 Post subject: Macro With my 40D
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:07 pm 
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Location: Syracuse, NY
I've found I need to get a macro lens or at least for now some close up filters, this .5m focusing is not what I am used to, I am used to being able to focus within 1cm so...

Image

Whats funny, is I found that outside on the ground, and I thought it was real when I grabbed it. I took a couple with a couple different focuses this one just so happens to have the center out of focus.

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This photo, is how I set up the shot. The simplest I have done in a while I have 2 of those 5-in-1 reflectors, so I took the gold one put it cam right, with a Daylight balanced CFL cam left, and then my other reflector is behind the flower but I am using the black surface of it.

Yes I know, DD and Alex have told me, I HAVE WAY TO MANY TRIPODS
(2 lightstands 4 tripods and 1monopod)

Image

Feedback is always welcome,

Jake

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:52 pm 
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Nice picture Jake! You have a whole studio set up, great :D !
The light is a little, well, difficult. It's to hard on some of the tips of the leaves, and two soft on the right side of the flower. You could use a this sheet of paper to diffuse the light.

- Bjorn -

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:46 pm 
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I think a little harsh light for this plastic-flower is perhaps not the worst way to present it. What irritates me more is the out-of-focus parts (how-d-ya-call-them) in the middle of the flower...
So for me the whole image is a little stuck in the middle:
- either present it as sharp as possible with more dof, contrasty light, so everybody can see the structure of the fabric and the threads
- or losen it up more with softer light, smaller dof / nice bokeh, so that perhaps the observer thinks this is the "real" thing until he discovers the threads in one corner. That would then be sort of a visual joke reflecting your own surprise, when you discovered that the flower was all plastic :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:01 pm 
hi jack i have been considering the 40D with the 28-135mm lens how are you finding it? is it good for macro? what other things do you shoot? do you have any problems were it is not wide enough?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:09 am 
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Location: lexington, kentucky
Hi thereza,
I have the 40D and the 28-135mm lens. So far I have found that I can get pretty good close ups. Surely not the quality of say a 60 macro etc. But ok for a photo hacker of my talent:)
Image
Image
Just a couple of examples. I know they are not very good , but that is due to my inexperience. I thinink the lens tho is fairly capable in the right hands.
Hoep this helps!
Yaince

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 1:38 pm 
nice shots yaince2261.

what macro lenses would you guys suggest for approx $600?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:06 pm 
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Get the Sigma AF 150mm f/2.8 APO EX HSM macro DG D.
It's the best non-stabilized macro out there :!:
See test here. This is on a Nikon body, but shows the performance of this lens!
The review-sample for the Canon body was clearly decentred as you can read there.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:12 pm 
thanks for the suggestion Thomas. The review says the closest focusing distance is only 40cm and i like to get closer to the subjects. but the f/2.8 is appealing.

are there any IS macro lenses that can zoom?

i dont know much about macro lenses so excuse my ignorance.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 2:47 am 
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Location: Southern California
that's ok, hang out here long enough, and ignorance turns into expertise...just by osmosis..

If these Gordon and the guys, don't know it, or can't figure it out, then it hasn't been made yet...look at all the stuff jake has in his room...looks like a camera store..

my personal favorite, is when they start making "parts" for their cameras, to mimic lenses, or show us their at home studio...the brilliance really shines, then.


patti

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 5:49 am 
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Well Thereza, you have to differenciate between two types of macro:
- "true macro", which is a lens that goes up to 1:1 magnification. Normally, when Canon or Nikon call lens "macro" it is a true macro, but most of them can't zoom because they're built for superb IQ (image quality)
- just "macro", a designation that many third-party manufacturers also use for lenses going up to "only" 1:3 or 1:4 magnification*. There are a lot of zooms out there from Sigma e.g. the Sigma AF 70-200mm f/2.8 EX HSM APO DG macro, that qualify for this. You can also find stabilized lenses in this category, like the Sigma 120-400mm OS that I'm currently testing here. It goes up to 1:4.2 magnification. The IQ of these lenses when used as macros can be so-so.
Now you have to decide what you really need: flexibility but not so much magnification or fixed focus but 1:1 magnification and superb IQ.

When I see your current lens-collection, Thereza, I'd suggest looking for the Sigma AF 17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 DC macro, which was reviewed here. I will also give you the wider end starting at 17mm for nice landscape and architecture shots :idea:

As to examples from a lens that goes "only" to 1:4: I'll come back later to show you some!

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*Third-party manufacturers have also lenses that go up to 1:1 which are simply designated as "macro". So you have to look carefully which kind of macro you get from Sigma, Tamron or Tokina!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 10:19 am 
thanx thomas. Even if the lens cant zoom can they still focus at different focal lenghts so i can compose different photos?

the lesn you mentioned looks ok. what about some canon ones? also disregard my current collection as it is my mums and i am planning to buy my own dlr and lenses.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 12:26 pm 
thereza333 wrote:
Even if the lens cant zoom can they still focus at different focal lenghts so i can compose different photos?


You can focus on different parts of the frame if that's what you mean. For example, you could have the foreground in-focus and the background out-of-focus or vise versa. Of course you can focus anywhere else in the frame too, but you'll have to choose a specific focus point or use the focus-recompose method. (Use the latter with caution, however, as this Google search shows.

Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 1:27 pm 
i mean if you move the camera away from the subect or towards can you still focus? or do u have to be a certain distance away? i ask because i want the flecibility of being able to get really close to a petal or step back and get two flowers in etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:42 pm 
Oh right. Yeah you can do that. Any lens will focus from infinity (far-off distance) to it's closest focusing distance (different for each lens).

Take a look at these two shots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/markh1000/2592380607/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/markh1000/2535588785/

The clouds are clearly much further away than the still life image but both are in focus.

It would be pretty impractical if you had to have your subject a precise distance from the lens for every shot. :!:

Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 7:51 pm 
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Now here are the promised examples. Both shots are around 1:3 - 1:4 magnification. The first shot at 400mm the second at 35mm. So you see that magnification has nothing to do with focal length but only with how close you are (or can get) to the subject of your photographic desire :idea:

Image

Image

Maybe that's enough magnification for you, Thereza!

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