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 Post subject: Bright Background
PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:54 am 
I took the following portrait picture at the Mt. Dandenong Ranges using a Canon 40D.

Image


As you can see, the background is quite bright. At the time of shooting (around lunch time), it wasn't really that bright and would've loved to catch the background as well. Not sure what to do in this case. I normally leave the ISO to Auto. Here is some of the EXIF data:

Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 43 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Bias: 2/3 EV

Appreciate any tips on the subject. Many many thanks.

Cheers, Andrew.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:17 am 
Well overall, I think it came out quite nicely.

I think the reason for the overexposure of the background is due to the metering on the camera.

The camera decides, "Which part of this picture is more important? Subjects, or background?" and it determines how to meter it correctly depending on the location.

You could always bracket your shots. From -2, -1, 0, +1, etc'

Then if you still can't find the optimum exposure, create an HDR.

Best,
-Sean.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 11:02 pm 
Thx Sean for your reply. Just that the scenery was beautiful so I thought I was doing something wrong. To do this pic as a HDR would be real hard, kids don't sit still :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 12:08 am 
ac55699 wrote:
To do this pic as a HDR would be real hard, kids don't sit still :lol:


The problem of HDR, moving objects.

But you may want to try it anyway, the 6.5 fps of the 40D may help you a lot. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:14 am 
sorry what is HDR?

I will set manual exposure, and then fill flash.

or spot metering the face


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:18 am 
Actually quite the opposite:

Spot meter for the sky so that it isn't overexposed and then use fill flash to bring back the faces.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:43 am 
Photoj wrote:
Spot meter for the sky so that it isn't overexposed and then use fill flash to bring back the faces.


Or bump the EV down a few steps and use the flash, or increase the apreture (which will affect the DOF) there are several ways of doing this!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 6:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 7:03 am
Posts: 1898
Location: Southern California
trot on over to the sister site, and look at Gordons tutorials on background or foreground..darken or lighten...interesting stuff, and nice that you can listen to him, (even tho he only has one shirt, he keeps it clean)...and you can play it over and over again, and let him talk you through the process...sometimes I memorize the phrases, and that helps me, too..I have spent many an afternoon with Gordon...telling about how to beautify water, and exposures, how to choose a lens, why this camera works better if you just do THIS...and go back all of the time to continue my education...good deal.

and beautiful subjects for your portraiture...good luck with the backgrounds, always, a work in progress...

patti

_________________
canon 7D, Mark iii 5D, ef 70-300 f/4-5.6, ef 28-135mm canon 100-400mm L IS 4.5, and a little 24-70 L f/2.8...
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:07 am 
Hi Everyone. Thx for the advice. The people here are just so nice. Thx again.

Cheers, Andrew

PS: Typically, the sun is shining on a Monday instead of the weekend :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:33 pm 
nice and clean .. well done


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