Camera Labs

is there some reason sony doesnt like us and dont give us at least a +- 2 bracket?

Yes, they hate customers.

If you really want to shoot +- 2 EV, set your camera on a tripod and use EV.

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Ruben

Panasonic DMC-FZ18, Panasonic DMC-FZ28, Canon G5, Canon 350D, Canon 50D + BG-E2N
Tamron 17-50 2.8, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,
Canon 18-55 II plus lots of Minolta MD/M42 lenses and bodies

Elfmaze - Seems to be a trend with some makers... Maybe it's cheaper to build them that way. Or they want you to buy their higher model with +/- 2EV in AEB...

The Canon SX10s-etc have +/- 2EV on AEB, but my new Fuji HS10 is just +/- 1EV either way - no improvement on their old S2000HD I have.

As Ruben advises - with the HS10, using a tripod, you can work around that.

You have to use a solid tripod to ensure that the camera can't move, though.

The Exposure Compensation range is probably from -2EV to +2EV. Set the first shot up at -2EV - or you can use the 1/3EV increments between. You might need to experiment a bit to discover how much EV 'spacing' you need.

Do that first shot at say, -2EV. Then, ensuring that you don't bump the tripod, change the Exposure Compensation only.

If you have a Remote control, you could then use that, otherwise use the Timer, to ensure that the camera doesn't move slightly at shutter press.

This way, you can obtain 3 images, or 5, etc, for HDR, if that's what you're doing.

I'm using Qtpfsgui in Linux for HDR - there's a Windows version (free) called Luminance. It has an "Alignment" function that works well to line-up the images.

Other applications will of course have the same sort of function.

Regards, Dave.

yup hdr. and i had a gorgeous shot that got ruined because somewhere between three shutters and spinning the little wheel it got bumped. its an a100 but i like the way it feels.

i will need a new body at some point because the stabilization broke and every picture frames 10* low and signally cocked to the side. i really wanted to stick with sony so i can use my two lenses. but there are few in there line up that will work for me.

every year i check the new cameras hoping but with no sucess.

entry DSLRs only have 1EV bracketing to save newbies from getting stuck in the creativity quaqmire that is HDR. Olympus have thoughtfully omitted it from my entry-level camera too.

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/53061745@N02/

Panasonic G3: 9-18mm, 14mm, 20mm, 45mm

Kimchi - It's not only the Entry Level DSLRs the makers are doing that with...

Fuji's new HS10 Bridge Zoom - $545.00 in Australia - has the same limit.

However, as its Exposure Compensation has external-button / control-dial operation, you can put it on a firm tripod and use the EC and 2-second Timer to get 3, 5, more if needed, images from -2EV to +2EV by 1/3 increments.

For safety I won't link it here, but the "w-w.hdr-photography.com/aeb.html" site has a long list of AEB functions by Brands and Models, to Google.

It also gives each camera's maximum Burst rate.

Regards, Dave.

Canon and Nikon are more than willing to give you bracketing. I just don't want to change out my glass.

Out of curiosity, what is it that you need the new camera to do that the latest Sony models can't do? I'm only wondering because of the latest slate of 4 cameras Sony just announced, that are all not only improvements on the last batch of models (A500/550) but also restore a lot of features previously seen on the A100 and dropped on many Sony DSLRs (MLU, DOF preview, Release w/o lens, etc).

Of course, none of them can do any more EV than any other Sony cam, so they still screw you there...but with all the new features, restored features, and amazing enhancements in focus, shooting speed, and high ISO...they are an awful lot of camera and you can always work around the EV thing like you've done in the past.

Or, you can always try out the in-camera HDR modes - which take 3 frames and do the merging and aligning in camera with an EV range of up to 6 EV. They can even be done handheld! And you can always tone map them afterwards. (it won't replace shooting multiple frames in RAW, and merging in HDR software with dedicated personal processing and tweaking, but it wins lots of points for convenience, handholdability, and spontaneity!).

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Justin Miller
Sony DSLR-A580 / Sony 18-250mm / Minolta 50mm F1.7 / Sigma 30mm F1.4 / Tamron 10-24mm / Tamron 200-500mm / Tamron 90mm F2.8 macro / Minolta 300mm F4 APO
Sony NEX5N / 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 / 55-210mm F4-6.3 / Pentax K adapter / Konica K/AR adapter / bunches o' Konica & Pentax lenses!

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